Joined: Fri May 18 2007, 04:59PM
Location: Vegas
Posts: 82
OK, I'm totally confused now?
I had to go back and re-read the entire thread a few times, as I MUST be missing a page or two, or something?
Was not your original question ....
"...with my '76 with the original RV2 compressor with R12. Previously, I always went the proper route with getting new compressors rebuilt for 134A. Recently, the A/C has just started blowing warm but funds are really bad at the moment. So what's the truth? What's the bottom line? Who has used the Wally World so called "conversion kits" (really R134A with adaptor fittings)??
Do they work? Don't forget I'm in Florida."
Unless I'm missing something, was not your next post ....
"Talk about serendipity!! I found a guy locally who's been doing A/C for 35 years and even knows all about the AutoTemp II. He still has a stockpile of parts for the R2 compressors!!! Dropped the car off to him this morning and he's going to take it from there. The only requirement was he can't work on A/C cars with Ri2 in them because he doesn't want to get involved with capturing, disposal, etc. I told him that the car would be brought in mysteriously purged of all R12. Must have been a real bad leak, huh??? "
I really don't think I was off base by taking your "wanting to fix it on the cheap" question in your first post, and your "found a shop that won't repair an R-12 system" statement in your second post together (along with other posts recommendations of using butane based replacements). I spent a good deal of time trying to provide "real' information based on your writings.
Your next post was ...
"Whoaaaaaaaaaaa, Q-ship!!! Before you shoot from the hip with your rant......... the FIRST (!!!) thing my shop is doing is making up new hoses, testing the system for leaks, and checking out the WHOLE system first.
PLUS, he has my Miller Special Tools C-4144 Chrysler Auto Temp II test box and manuals!!!
And yes, if we need a new drier, evaporator, cmpressor, EPR valve (do you even know what and where the EPR valve is and what it does?), etc. it will be replaced. Don't take me to task when most people here know darn well I don't cheap out on my repairs.
OK?"
Shoot from the hip!??? My post was aimed at each specific area of your original and follow up posts. I certainly didn't mean to "rant", nor do I see how it could be considered as much, however, If I offended you, I apologize. BUT!
I have been dealing with these cars since they were new, I build ultra high performance A/C systems for convertible muscle cars, for extreme heat conditions, as a sideline job (not just Mopars), and all I was attempting to do was point out that you (based on your posts), were not headed down a path that is either the inexpensive, nor was it the most efficient way to fix your problem.
Had I known that cost was no object (based on your last post), I might have offered to sell you some of the parts that I have had manufactured for ultra performance A/C in a Mopar.
As far as I know, I am the only person that has ever had high volume replacement blower cages manufactured, PWM blower controllers, air intake dehumidifiers (necessary to have outlet temperatures much below 30 degrees), and studied/tested (and produced varying thickness of low drag insulation materials), to reconfigure the blower chamber dimensions, and air box insulation, for maximum air flow, minimized drag/heat (aerodynamic and electrical), as well as turbulence. ETC!
Lastly, This is not aimed completely at you, but also toward the "expertise?" of your chosen A/C tech, and I will admit it is a JAB at both of you, but you brought it up, so lets examine facts!
Any, (even a half assed) 134 conversion does not retain the EPR (evaporator pressure regulator, for those of us, like me, that don't know what they are), if good A/C performance is required.
Like every other component of an A/C system, it was designed for "good" performance in it's original environment (R-12). Any real changeover to 134 (or even a "performance" R-12 system) will eliminate the EPR in favor of a thermal clutch cycling switch to optimize A/C performance, and increase gas millage and power)!. I have never heard of a 134 optimized EPR, and am willing to stake anything on the fact that one has never been developed), so I am at a loss as to what they are going to replace "if necessary" (your words)?
Just as a point of interest, As a methodology that is light years ahead of your "replaced? EPR" I have been using junkyard "GM" MAF sensors in conjunction with thermal cycling switches in order to obtain the lowest evaporator temperature vs air flow (just prior to freezing)! ---- Try that with an EPR!
In re-reading all this, I have to "limitedly" apologize for the tone of this post, but I was so taken aback by your unfair responses that It got my Ire up! I originally offered good, solid advice to you and others faced with the same problem, yet you decided to change the original question to a "I never cheap out" direction!!!, or questioning provenly good (not just from me, but "textbook") advice, and my knowledge on these A/C systems (which I will put up against anybody)!
Even though I am not proud of myself for doing so, showing your ignorance of the subject has now taken a backseat to answering a good question that could be a learning experience for anyone in the same situation!
I assure you I will not offer anymore "answers" to any question you ask again as you don't want answers, and It would be a disservice to those that are really seeking solutions or options!
Joined: Thu Jul 08 2010, 10:24PM
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
Posts: 415
Well, if it is any consolation I didn't think it was a rant. I thought it was informative as I have stock systems and intend to keep them original stock in the cars.
Joined: Sun Jan 31 2010, 03:36PM
Location: Dublin, PA
Posts: 414
While we're on the subject of Chrysler A/C systems, here's a heads-up. I've been finding that a lot of the EPR valves are starting to fail due to age. I believe that they use thermal wax to operate, just like a thermostat does. They fail in the closed position, which means zero refrigerant flow in the system. I bought 2 NOS valves and they were both bad right out of the boxes. If the ports are closed at room temperature, the valve is shot. When you retrofit to 134 you are supposed to take out the EPR valve, and add a thermal switch to the evaporator to shut off the compressor clutch if it starts to freeze. Don't know if this would work ok with R-12, if the day comes that you can't get a working EPR valve. Also don't know if anyone is reparing or reproducing these valves.
It turns out that my guy purged and completely cleaned the system and then circulated the dye and found no leak. Cool, I'm bucks ahead on these still good looking hoses. Tested the condenser immediately and that was the problem and he put in a new one. Hmmm... looking good so far (crosses fingers) and he charges the system with the synthetic that is actually colder than R134A but is less efficient which means it has to circulate faster especially down here in FL. Turns it on, it blew cold then gave out after about an hr. He calls me and asks me if I have in my stockpile a new EPR. I didn't and he got one right away. R&R EPR and fire up. Works good at high road speed and OK at around town even by Florida summer standards which is really demanding). I'm happy. It will get me to my local car shows and an occaisional trip up to Orlando.
If I need more, I'll add an aux. fan for the condensor and we're toally good to go.
Joined: Sun Jul 11 2010, 09:35AM
Location: Boerne,Tx
Posts: 411
commando1 wrote ... It turns out that my guy purged and completely cleaned the system and then circulated the dye and found no leak. Cool, I'm bucks ahead on these still good looking hoses. Tested the condenser immediately and that was the problem and he put in a new one. Hmmm... looking good so far (crosses fingers) and he charges the system with the synthetic that is actually colder than R134A but is less efficient which means it has to circulate faster especially down here in FL. Turns it on, it blew cold then gave out after about an hr. He calls me and asks me if I have in my stockpile a new EPR. I didn't and he got one right away. R&R EPR and fire up. Works good at high road speed and OK at around town even by Florida summer standards which is really demanding). I'm happy. It will get me to my local car shows and an occaisional trip up to Orlando.
If I need more, I'll add an aux. fan for the condensor and we're toally good to go.