Joined: Fri Dec 22 2006, 08:41PM
Location: Warrenton, Virginia
Posts: 1366
The car is a 67 Chrysler 300 'vert with 440 TNT package including Budd disc brakes. I'm gonna list the vendor, then the parts I got from them and the price of each:
just suspension (js)
1.16" diameter torsion bars $500 tubular upper control arms $400 lower ball joints (rare Bubb brake) $800 upper ball joints $52 Heavy duty tie rod ends $35 " " " " sleeves $40 Heavy duty strut rods $130 Strut rod bushings $35 Jounce bumpers $20 cam bolts $12.50 control arm bushings $75 Total just suspension $$ 1,969.50 !nervous
Firm Feel stage 2 steering box $329 Bilstein shocks $425 1 1/8" diameter front sway $295 7/9" dia rear sway $175 (got it less $175 from steer core Idler and pitman arms $220 lower control arm plates $40 Total Firm feel $$ 1,484
Magnum force lower steering col'n bearing $83 upper col'n bearing $80 Total Magnum force $$ 163
summit Racing four Wheel vintiqes 15 x7 wheels $160 four yokohama avid s/t 245/70x15 radial tires $450 Total Summit Racing $$ 610
Custom Alignment 4.5 degees + Caster 0 degree Camber stock 1/8" Toe Total $$ 99
Grand Total $$$ 5000.50 !stars !nervous !crazy
This does not include the costs of labor or the costs of basically "trashing" two steer&gear rebuilt boxes because I didn't like them (too much on center play).
Joined: Thu Feb 12 2009, 02:56AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 690
I am looking to do basically the same thing to my 68 VIP, just not wanting to go to the expence of the upper arms and are the heavy duty strut rods really nessesary? Im not a "deep pocketed person" more of a work harder to find a way to make inexpensive stuff work as good. By necesity mind you! I always say get the best stuff your budjet will allow. LOL. Was think ing do all new poly bushing, new rod ends, wheel bearings, Firm feel torsion bars, front and rear sways, and a set of shocks. Maybe a new set of rear leafs, with a slide a leaf tracktion bar kit. What do ya think. Great info on the vert by the way.
Joined: Fri Dec 22 2006, 08:41PM
Location: Warrenton, Virginia
Posts: 1366
VIP, You could same some coin compared to me if you do not go for the tubular upper A arms...close to $400 and my car has the Budd disc brakes, so the lower ball joint was $800 (it's less than $50 for a drum brake car). I'd say go with the Firm Feel front and rear sways, the torsion bars and leaf springs....To tell you the truth, the KYB shocks are actually Ok. A lot cheaper than the Bilsteins. If you are happy with your steering box then keep that or get a NAPA rebuilt one...The rear sway bar did MORE to improve the steering response and tightness than the stage 2 steering box did.. YOU can save a couple of grand with carefull choices and packaging your parts as you go.....I just bought stuff whenever I could afford it...it would have been cheaper to get some stuff all in a kit.
Uncle Joe My suspension was really SHOT when I got the car....It was scary to drive, especially over 55 mph...NO JOKING. I started with the basic stuff that would make the car at least safe and driveable. That being control arm bushings and shocks. That made a difference, but I found out that my leaf springs were coming apart....replaced those. My upper and lower ball joints were absolutely shot and my sway bar bushing was shot. Ok, control arm bushings and shocks steering box (not happy with that one so I got rid of it) leaf springs torsion bars came out from Just Suspension about 2 years ago, got those and Firm Feels front sway bar same time These made a MAJOR DIFFERENCE in making the car more stable on the hiway and handle better. Then I got Firm Feels stage 2 steering box, the tubular upper A arms and new ball joints and tie rod ends just about at the same time. I was very happy with the results, but the steering still felt a bit uncertain driving on gentle bends just off center. I could live with that, but I finally decided to just go ahead and try the rear sway bar.
I got the rear sway, sub-frame connectors, boxed lower control arms and Bilstein shocks just last week...GREAT!!
Joined: Sat Aug 19 2006, 05:03PM
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2919
I would be interested to know more about the subframe connectors. I didn't find many comments in your other thread about how they were constructed/installed.
Joined: Thu Feb 12 2009, 02:56AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 690
Ditto on the sub cons, and thx for the susp info. I am hoping to have mine in primer within about a week or two. My little brother has stepped in to help me finnish it up with bolth physical and finacial help. I truly love that little bugger.
Joined: Fri Dec 22 2006, 08:41PM
Location: Warrenton, Virginia
Posts: 1366
Well, my mechanic friend fab'ed them up and welded them in...then he undercoated everything. They DID make a big difference...now, even the doors, trunk and hood close with a more "satisfying" sound (not sure how to describe it but more solid). The shaking and wiggling of the steering column is MUCH diminished....still there sometimes but most people probably wouldn't even notice it.
I'll have to look more carefully and inspect underneath the car and then I'll report back in more detail...My car is a convertible, so it was sorely needed.
Joined: Fri Dec 22 2006, 08:41PM
Location: Warrenton, Virginia
Posts: 1366
I'm not entirely sure Uncle Joe....the rear springs were replaced while my car was in a resto shop for 6 months having the engine/tranny overhauls and other stuff done. I did not order them, they did because my springs were basically falling apart. The car is in its storage location now so I'll have to look next week. I did count the # of leaves several times and I think I do remember counting 61/2...it does not look like there are any interleaves though...
