Joined: Wed Dec 21 2005, 07:34AM
Location: indiana
Posts: 791
I have the Firmfeel 1.12 bars on the front of my 68 Fury. Also have new KYB shocks, front tires are 235/60-15, and I have an iron-headed 440 also (for comparing my car to NFURY8�s). I�m not sure I would want anything any stiffer than this personally, so I wouldn�t want the 1.16 from JS (also considering the �issue� I had in trying to buy T-bars from them, but that�s another story).
However, you�d need 47� bars whereas a Plymouth C-body uses a 44� bar. By nature, a shorter bar is stiffer than a longer bar of the same diameter.
I have a set of Firmfeel front and rear swaybars but haven�t installed them yet. I can tell you, though, that the car handles significantly better with just the 1.12s (and no swaybar) than it did prior with the HD .98� factory Tbars and a HD 15/16� front swaybar.
You�ve been wanting that guy to sell you this car for some time now, haven�t you come across another one to buy instead? Or is this particular car calling your name?
I personally am not a fan of them, especially if your like me and have to work in gravel. If you MUST use them, at least plunk them on a 2x12 or better, or use a sheet of thicker plywood. Me, for my money, especially if i am going to be yanking a lot on the car and/or its gonna sit, id rather get fresh 6x6 or 8x8 "cant"/lumber, buck it into 18" or 24" lengths, and stack them two by two by one, then if wanting added security spike em together. Hey, they use this to hold up houses, and i did this on a motorhome I did a lot of work to, as well as my 72 Port - it is quite stable. As they say, common sense goes a long way.
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 12:51AM
Location: california
Posts: 143
I just finished working on my suspension. I had a neighbor crushed by his car falling off jack stands, so no measure is enough for me. I personally use 6 stands distributed all around, and use my 3 ton hydraulic jack under the engine truss for safe measure. With all the yanking and torquing the last thing i want is a wobbly setup holding up these giant cars.
Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
5000lb Imperial......
I have another pair, but I am going to weld on some square tubing braces since they are the one piece stamped ramps. I also have a few pieces of laminated beam to go under them so they don't sink into the asphalt....should also give me 2" more height....
Joined: Sun Nov 28 2010, 12:30AM
Location: East Texas
Posts: 2
I've been reading this thread with great interest. I am planning to purchase a 65 Fury Convertable in the near future. I want it to handle like a new car. I have been looking for a front suspension/steering upgrade kit and haven't been able to find anything. I gather from what's being written here, the right combination of aftermarket replacement parts will give me the handling/cornering ability I seek. Am I reading that correctly? I am still interested in power assist rack and pinion steering, does anyone know how that might be accomplished? I have been considering using a recent production R/T Charger as a doner for suspension, steering and brake upgrades. Is that a "realistic" possibility. Thanks in advance for your input.
Joined: Sun Jul 18 2010, 11:11PM
Location: DFW
Posts: 811
Skip the suspension swap unless you just can't live without lots of heartache and hassle. Get the proper torsion bars, leaf springs, and sway bars and you're fine. On a 'vert the biggest change you can make is a set of subframe connectors. A 65 Fury rag top is a really flexible car. It borders on floppy. The subframe connectors will make an impressive difference even with the stock suspension. Stiffening up that chassis makes the suspension do it's job. Right now, when you hit a bump the body twists and absorbs the energy. To see it for yourself, do a simple test. With the car flat on the ground, open the door and hold it against the car so it looks closed but isn't latched. Check out the alignment of the top of the door and the quarter panel. Jack up the front corner of the car pretty high and check the door to quarter panel alignment again. I bet you see a difference. The subframe connectors will remove much of that twist.