Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
65Coronet7165 wrote ... To make sure I'm perfectly clear....Cut the black wire FROM the alternator stud going thru terminal P and splice it to the red wire which goes from terminal J to the starter relay. This by-passed the alternator gauge.WRONG!! You are not reading it correctly. b]YOU DO NOT CONNECT THEM TOGETHER[/b] 1.At the main harness under the dash at bulkhead cut red wire going to terminal J.Connect new wire to it and thread through firewall and connect to B stud of starter realy with fusible link. 2.Again,at main harness under dash,at bulkhead,cut black wire that goes through terminal P.Connect new wire to it and thread through firewall and with a fusible link,connect to BATT stud at the back of alternator. The purpose is to go direst and skip the bulkhead connector. *** In the very first video I showed how to bypass the ammeter guage--so simple that you (NICK) cannot grasp the concept,IMO. One wire,one fusible link,two connectors and ten minutes DONE!
Any suggestions now on how to monitor the electrical system??
Install a voltmeter.Wire it to a switched power source in fuse panel and ground it to any metal surface.
Joined: Sat Apr 29 2006, 05:11PM
Location: Cincy
Posts: 269
68_300_Conv wrote ... your 65 coronet shouldn't need the bulkhead upgrades ... if you look closely the car has 2 screw terminals on the engine side of the bulkhead connector. They are solid brass through the bulkhead connector and have screw terminal on the back side that feed the ampmeter. all the 62 -65 cars were made this way ..
Not totally true - - only most were. My 65 Fury has the HD alternator and actually has the wire going directly thru the firewall via a grommet to the ammeter.
Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
Chrysler was aware of the bulkhead conection problem with heavy electrical loads. Fleet and police vehilces that were equipped with the HD alrternator did have the separate wire going through its own grommet in the firewall. The Formals were the first to recieve the upgraded wiring and then all cars after 1976 followed suit.No bulkheads at the firewall. By then all Mopars had volt meters--not ammeters. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Thu Apr 09 2009, 10:11PM ]</span>
This is a pretty good deal to help out others. I did this a while back. I opted to delete the amp gauge since it is a problem area for mopars. I still have to get the volt gauge in. Definitely an improvement.
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
Hey Leanburn. . . .Ever heard of solder and shrink wrap? !nana
He probably read the stuff on my site. They had the problem in all bodies up until 75. Even then, over time corrosion would set in. The Bulkheads usually corroded because they heated up. Bad connections would show an abnormal charge on an ammeter as well. The Bypass Bargie is showing you is a Factory TSP.
Joined: Thu Jun 30 2011, 10:24PM
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 21
If I decide to bypass the ammeter, can I install a voltmeter instead? By the way, my car is a 71 sport fury, do these 2 main wires pass through my bulhead also? I will check but want to make sure I am looking for the right wires! Thanks
Joined: Thu May 01 2008, 11:15AM
Location: Chicago,IL
Posts: 2868
yes and yes. Depending on where you tap into the electrical system to feed the volt meter you may get a skewed reading however. I.E. the voltage reading at the big stud on the starter relay will differ from inside the car at the fuse box, and even 1 side of the fuse box to the other will differ. You can tap in most anywhere if you just want to make sure the batt is being charged however and aren't chasing gremlins.