Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
Hey Clair- I think they make an Ultrabell for your trans/motor combo. You hack off the bellhousing on the 518 and bolt the 440 one to the front pump and you gain an SFI approved bellhousing as well! The hack job can be a sawzall job since the object is to just get most of the original bellhousing out of the way.....
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
Cla IR (I'll get it right eventually)
Then this is the mount for you. You only drill the trans mounting holes an inch further back. But! You may run into a problem with the speedo cable. It's going to be tight for me as it is. The speed sensor sticks out about 2.5" an you attach the cable to that. The speed sensor needed is from an 88 Dakota. You use your speedo gear from your 727.
I'll send you a pic with the materials list and dimensions. It will take you about 4 hours to make. Took us 8, so the thinking is done
An Ultrabell would be a decent option, they're not too expensive, at least WRT the adapter. Plus, I know how to work a sawz-all...
Off-topic, is the 88 Dak VSS a separate unit that basically screws in between the speedo output and the cable? I think that must be what came with my EFI kit, but I had no idea where it came from. Good to know...
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
Yes CLAIR
That's the speed sensor that goes into the speedo gear hole. The 92 has an electronic speedometer, so to adapt to the mechanical in your fury, you need to use this sensor. You will need to modify the end of the cable to a a smaller connector, like the one that goes to a cruise control unit
Hmmm... the one I have APPEARS to have the same large end on it as the cable. I never paid attention to it other than to note that it was a neat piece. I'll have to take a closer look, as I don't want to have to replace the speedo cable again, but that's a drop in the ocean at this point...
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
71F3 wrote ... Well Bill! You're not going to like the results. Darn near broke my heart to do what I had to do. . . But the results were an major improvement.
As you know, I had the torsion bar relaxed. We plled the engine out last night and have it ready to install the new one, which will be this weekend. I'll have a fresh recored Rad Friday, so it appears that I am all set with everything I need to start it.
The T bar still had some load on it. For the life of me I have yet to figure out how I even put it together! It wouldn't come out. So I disconnected the upper BJ, Still not enough. Loosened the sway bar, shock and strut rod, still no. Tried to take the Strut Rod out. Nope! WACO! (We aint comin out) I ran into a stone wall. So I got out a strap wrench and tried to knock it back. No way. Finally, out of disgust, and it getting dark and damp, I got the hot wrench out and cut the yeepin' thing Out. As I heated the bar, I watched it relax. Damage was done so I finished it.
Put the knuckle back together, slipped the station wagon/big block bar in there, finished it up, put it down, Done and normal. The right side was much simpler. Bar slid out, put the matching bar in and done.
Weird.
Well that's bizarre, how could still have load on it? I'm wondering about the history of that bar, could it have been in a fire and got partially annealed? If so when you tightened it, the bar could take some permenant twist which would "retain" what appeared to some load when you cranked it back. Where did you get the bar?
With your cross member in place, has the movement disappeared in the rear bar mounts?
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
Bizzare. . .There has to be a better word.
The car they came from was not burned. . . It was just abandoned as junk. Had a 318 and a kazillion miles on it. (300K + with a big hole in the bottom of the oil pan) There were no abnormal marks on the bar, I washed it down real good and left it with it's original coating, they have that blue/green coating on them
As to it twisting and staying there, can't figure it out. Freak of engineering. Should go on the history channel as one of those mechanical wonders. LOL
Clair You can just change the end on the cable. I have the same dilemma here. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Wed May 24 2006, 10:08AM ]</span>