Joined: Wed Oct 12 2005, 01:10AM
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 2690
Well I mocked up all my hoses the other night...took a fair amount of running and re-running lines until I had something I liked.
Once everything was in place...I used some cheap red Zip ties to hold everything in place and then makes the hose and fitting alignment with a felt marker....you need to do this because the hoses have a arc to them right now..they may soften and change in time but right now they are set to the arc that the were spooled to from the factory.
I then used some green masking tape to hold the lines and fitting together until I could get them crimped.
Make sure you have them remove the tape before crimping...the guy didn't do this on mine and it tool some time to clean off all the tape...
So those are the lines all done and crimped... !thumb <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Wed Apr 13 2011, 11:57PM ]</span>
Joined: Wed Oct 12 2005, 01:10AM
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 2690
So I started to install all the lines but was almost done when I ran into another problem...the #10 line that runs off the compressor and back to the evaporator fitting through the firewall...(the big fitting)...the fitting that came in the kit would not install properly...
This is the fitting that came in the kit...
It was too long after the flare and bottomed out before the O-ring could seat.
Here is the original fitting...
You can see the size difference...so a little cutting was required...
Once I cut it I used a small flat file to make sure the end was nice and flat and level and removed any burs and rough edges with emery cloth, then used acetone and compressed air to clean the line and make sure there was no filings or debris in the line.
Joined: Wed Oct 12 2005, 01:10AM
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 2690
Oh but before you close everything up you will need to flush the original lines and evaporator core first...I used acetone and compressed air to flush the parts. I did this several times to try and get as much of the original mineral oil and gunk out of the system.
Here is what my homemade flush system looked like...It is just spare hoses and stuff into an empty jug...
Joined: Wed Oct 12 2005, 01:10AM
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 2690
Now I could finish hooking up all the lines...you'll need wrenches ranging from 1/2" to 1 1/4".
Now that all the lines were installed I tightened everything and set about hooking up the cycling switch.
I mounted it on the side of the hood torsion bar mount...since it already had an existing hole and was nice and close to the #10 line through the firewall. The cycling switch has a temp. line that needs to coil around the #10 line. And then be insulated with that black sticky goo.
Also discovered that the original A/C wire was just long enough to reach the cycling switch, since it has a long extension that used to run to the compressor...but once removed was the original wire worked perfect.
Joined: Wed Oct 12 2005, 01:10AM
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 2690
Now I had to wire up the switch...your original wire runs to the cycling switch then runs to the pressure switch on the drier and then back to your compressor.
I used the blue wire in the kit to run from the cycling switch to the pressure switch then I bought some red wire to run from the pressure switch back to the compressor.
I also had to buy a single terminal water tight fitting, since the compressor I got had this already installed...
The local parts house had this kit in stock....
So I ran all the wiring and then used some electrical tape to mark the ends and then pulled all the wiring out and taped it up nicely using fabric tape...used on hockey sticks.
I then re-installed all the wiring, tucking it away so you don't really notice it.
So I hope to get it recharged by this weekend.... !banana
Joined: Wed Oct 12 2005, 01:10AM
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 2690
Well my friend came by this morning and rechaged the A/C in the wagon...he did a nitrogen teak test...no leaks.. !thumb
Then did a vacuum test..again no leaks... !thumb
So he hooked up eveything and loaded about 1.5-2lbs of 134A into the system...with a bit of dye incase I spring a leak down the road I'll be able to see where it is leaking....the charge going through the drier sight glass is now lime green...
Car cools something fearce now...on Max A/C and the fan on high it's like a meat locker in there...on the regular A/C setting it cold cold cold... !nervous
The only thing that is not working is the cycling switch...I hooked it up per the instructions but it has yet to cycle the compressor...anyone have any problems...Butch..Steve??
But I can live with the compressor running all the time...cools better that way I've found.
So it's now done done done...hope this thread helps others with there retrofit/upgrade.
Joined: Wed Oct 12 2005, 01:10AM
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 2690
Well I believe I mentioned earlier in ths thread that my cycling switch was not working....well I was wrong.
Turns out that on the "MaxA/C" setting the compressor runs full time, but on the "A/C" setting the system will cycle on and off. Also on any of the regular "Heat, Vent, Def" settings the compressor cycles as well.
I only discovered this this fall and winter when I have had the wagon out with the heat on..and then I ran the A/C to lube the system and heard it cycling as well.
Joined: Tue Nov 06 2007, 04:01PM
Location: detroit
Posts: 41
Hate to go O/T but I can't find your other thread. I have a 66 T&C; I got it without keys. Does the tailgate window lock use the ignition key, the glove box key or? I am trying to get it redone without removing the tailgate lock. Thnaks, Mark
Joined: Tue Nov 06 2007, 04:01PM
Location: detroit
Posts: 41
Thanks, this helps. This is the Daffodil yellow T&C that came out of a Detroit estate sale - original owner, 45K miles, not running since 1979. BTW, I have it running; replacing all of the brakes so I can get it on the road soon. Mark