Joined: Mon Feb 20 2006, 08:12PM
Location: Ontario,Canada
Posts: 950
Can someone please explain what I need to do to clean the bulkhead connection at the firewall.. supplies, how to remove the connection properly, trouble spots to look for when I have it apart....etc..
The headlights and dash lights are starting to go bright and dim while I drive so I think it is a good time to clean the connection...
Look for melted plastic, or black discolored connectors. It will usually be the #10 grade wire. I forgot exactly how the 65's are wired, but I believe it is similar to the later C Bods. Also check the femail connectors on the engine side of the fire wall for breakage if the ears on the brass connector. Also check the male connectors on the fire wall for the same thing.
Cleaning. . . Vinagar and a tooth brush, then chase it with a mile soap solution (Dish Detergent) and rinse thouroughly with water. Let dry, apply some vasoline. Plug it back in.
There are a few other things you need to check. The connection on the amp meter loosens up, you'll love doing those. (I have a spare meter if you need it) Check the ignition switch connections, and check the voltage regulator. If the single field regulator is not working correctly, it will give you the same effect.
Joined: Mon Feb 20 2006, 08:12PM
Location: Ontario,Canada
Posts: 950
Actually I will be following your gas gauge tech article when it gets warmer..
I will bring out my camera when I do this while I clean the connector to take some pics to post for others who have to do this...
The amp gauge does the dance with the turn signal on.. it goes to discharge at idle with the lights on.... light pulse while driving... etc...
I put on a new ground cable.. and a new postive connector to the battery... I moved the ground cable from being attached on a exhaust stud to attaching on a bare spot on the intake..
I pull off the ground to chassis wire and took off the paint to give a better ground..
The regualtor was replaced a few years ago.. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Sun Mar 26 2006, 08:12PM ]</span>
This has got to be the #1 problems facing mopars.Corroded connections.I removed most of my grounds,took a dremel tool w/sander and cleaned and sanded where all the connectors went on the sheet metal.On the connectors i cleaned with a small wire brush,then applied a smear of dialetic grease to them all.I then removed the bulkhead connector from the firewall and bent all the wires downward with all the wires still connected to the plastic housing and let them soak in PPG Metal Conditioner and brushed the connectors with a small brass wire brush.The cond. will not harm the plastic.I rinsed with clean water and blow dried,then packed the connectors with dialetic grease.The PPG product removed most of the Green Death from the connectors,and what a difference that made.Any body else used this method?The conditioner was about 25.00 a quart,but thats a small price to pay for a lot less headaches.Glen.
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
That is usually an indication of low voltage, caused somewhere in the power wiring. Check what I suggested. It is possible the regulator is weak, but you also want to make sure you don't have a diode burned out on the alternator. But based on what you are saying, that probably isn't it.
When you are driving the car, with no load, it the ammeter charging higher than normal?
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
I know the PPG stuff you're talking about. But, as you said, $25.00 a quart. Vinigar is an acid, basically the same thing. The soap solution is a neutralizer.
I'm afraid to use a wire brush because there is always a risk of a brissle coming out and jaming in the connections. Potential fault. But then again, I'm half blind anymore
Dielectric grease is the ultimate, but also expensive. That is usually used in electronic connections, primarily in electronics connections, 0 to 10 or 4 to 20. It's extremely low resistence. Vasoline is cheap, and frankly, I doubt you would see the difference.
What you are doing is the BEST way, But when being budget concious, the Vinigar is 59 cents a quart. Basically we both accomplish the same thing. I am just a cheap butt and have all this stuff in a pantry. I guess being old doesn't help either.
Keep up the good work. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Sun Mar 26 2006, 09:48PM ]</span>
Dielectric Grease all the way!! I buy it in the big tube, lasts a couple years. I put it on almost EVERY electric connection; Light bulbs, firewall, sparkplugs, distributor, extra handy on those exterior lights that tend to draw moisture and corode.
Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
You could use ammonia to clean the contacts - that's what we use to clean flux & crap from sheetmetal that's been leadworked. The main thing is the rinse and blow out to keep the contacts from corroding in the solution you used to clean them ! Another good thing is an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner - the solution is a mild ammonia and detergent mix and the sound waves really break up the green stuff fast!
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
You've got to be careful what you use to do your cleaning and sealing.
Using vinegar is only effective on very light corrosion, to really clean the joint get a small bottle of acid soldering paste. Apply it with a cloth or Q-tip. Don't use liquid acid to dip the connector, the acid will wick up the wire and continue to eat the metal. Using acid paste allows you to control where it goes.
After using acid, you must use a base to make sure all the acid is gone. Baking soda mixed with water to form a paste works well. Again avoid letting any of this solution wick into the wire.
Next wash everything with clear water, distilled is the best since its PH is neutral.
Next use a heat gun or hair drier to heat the wire and connector to cook out any moisture. This is most important step since any moisture left in the wire will be trapped when you use waterproofing grease to seal the connection. Once moisture is sealed in, it won't go away and will cause problems.
Finally cover the whole connection with grease such as Vaseline. Again be careful what you use. Vaseline comes in different grades and most contain some resins and are slightly acidic. Go to an electrical supply house and look for White Vaseline which is specifically designed for electrical connections and is resin and acid-free . A small tube is about $5 or so. Dielectric grease can get you into trouble because it's melting point is quite low and its a good insulator. I've seen the results first hand when I cleaned my battery posts and covered them with dielectric grease. When the engine compartment got hot, the grease melted and saturated the connection - including the gap between the battery cable and the post. When everything cooled the car wouldn't start because the grease essentially insulated the battery post from the cable. Now I use chassis grease. Vaseline also tends to melt when hot so I seldom use it anymore, chassis grease seems to work better.
Whatever method you use always be very careful to not allow any of your cleaning fluids to wick up the wire otherwise you'll be looking at harness replacement in a year or two.