I was looking to either replace my leafs and relocate them or upgrade my rear suspension. I like the idea of the tri 4 link because I can place it all inboard of the frame and mini tub so I can run very large rear tires. Has anyone used these?
Joined: Thu Mar 01 2007, 09:30PM
Location: Houston
Posts: 1735
Well.....I wouldn't consider a 4 link an upgrade unless you intend to never leave the drag strip. I assume you are talking about a spherical rod end 'Art Morrison' type of 4 link. On the street they handle corners worse, take bumps much worse, are noisy and generally more flimsy.
You can relocate the leaf inboard to allow larger rubber but remember that the more you move them in, the more you hurt your car's handling. Imagine going to an extreme and moving them in until they touch each other; the car would drive horribly. You can probably get away with a few inches per side but beyond that you'll notice a meaningful difference.
Joined: Sat Aug 11 2007, 06:47PM
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 8
a 'triangulated' 4 link has the upper arms angled, they form a sort of triangle when viewed from above. this is what came on GM A-bodies, probably big GM cars like bonnevilles and cadillacs, and i think ford crown vics and maybe fox-body mustangs? some aftermarket frames for early vettes and street rods use it too. different than the 'dragster' type 4-link, where all arms are in-line and i think you need a panhard bar for lateral alignment? the angled upper arms of the triangulated 4-link hold the rear end in position laterally on that setup.
i have a '65 pontiac tempest that came with that rear suspension. i replaced it with a 'truck-arm' setup; it's much different still.
on a C-body mopar i'd think it would be a hell of alot of work... you'd almost be back-halving the car to make mounts for all the links, plus mounting them to the rear end. getting the suspension geometry right would be a challenge too. people badmouth triangulated 4-links when they bind up and restrict suspension action.
how big of a tire do you want? <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Sun Aug 26 2007, 10:25PM ]</span>
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 05:02PM
Location: ALLEN PARK, MI.
Posts: 2007
As said, you would be "pretty much" wasting your time with a 4 link on the street! Sure, it LOOKS COOL and is the ultimate for axle traction control, but a bit "overkill" for street use. The cost would be up there to!
Wanna save some $$$$$$ and still go fast? Try a set of "CAL-TRACS" on your 66'! They will bolt right up to a 66' Sport Fury, having the same length's as a B-BODY rear. Proven on 11SECONDC's 66' Sport Fury! running high 11's and LOW 60 ft times!
Keep your leaf's, add the TRAC'S, and GRAB-N-GO! Tony P./TONYPRO RACING!
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 05:02PM
Location: ALLEN PARK, MI.
Posts: 2007
Another....by the way here, but I am running an "almost" 11 inch wide M/T DRAG RADIAL on my 66' M500 with the CAL'S, and it looks plenty cool from behind! Well, with my AWESOME set of tail lights too! RIGHT ROSS? !thumb Tony P.
Joined: Thu Mar 01 2007, 09:30PM
Location: Houston
Posts: 1735
I'm not even convinced a 4 link is the ultimate on a nose heavy car like a 66 Fury. The Pro Stock guys running 4 links, where the 4 link is admittedly superior, have much better weight distribution.
Good feedback, as for the triangulated it is a good road suspension un like the standard 4 link with the panhard bar and the article from stitcher bob did have some answers that I was looking for. As for installation it is a basic weld up with the air ride kit it has all mounts and brackets. I can leave all my original suspension in place to keep the car at ride height and pinion angle and then remove it once the tri 4 is welded in. This is still a working idea and there are many things to look at. Thanks again for the feedback.
Joined: Mon Jan 16 2006, 02:52AM
Location: Vantaa,Finland
Posts: 379
A four link does not care about the weight distribution, and I don't think that a C-body even is very noseheavy. Built properly, it's fully adjustable for most conditions. How flimsy it will be, depends of the parts used. Use pro mod style bars, rod ends and plates, and the leaf springs seem very flimsy. In a street car, you should use some other axle locating method than the diagonal link. We have a wishbone in ours. Reilly motor sports offers a "triangle four link" for an A-body, pretty much a bolt on deal and no need for heavy cutting, I think you could build a similar system for a C-body too. But the question is, why? The leaf springs work, and with custom leafs you can go a long way with them.