Joined: Mon Feb 20 2006, 08:12PM
Location: Ontario,Canada
Posts: 950
I finally got my Mallory Hyfire 1A installed... I'm still running points and found the car starts better now.. seems to run smoother.. I'm happy... for $30.00 on ebay and an hour and a half of time.. I feel it was worth it..
It's an old unit but was brand new in the box... here's a pic of the unit in the car.. I think they are up to Hyfire 5 or something now..
Do not silicone the hole as something may snag the wire and still cut it,you need a grommet in there to let it "float".Also cut a fuseable link off of any mopar in the boneyard and splice it into the wire near the battery.This is a direct link to full voltage and you need a liitle insurace as you may have a complete meltdown if this wire grounds.I know from experience with my 340 4gear duster.should take you less than 1/2 hr to solder this in(don't just crimp the wire).Good choice of ign. by the way!.Glen
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
Yes I agree, silicon is not a great idea. If you don't want to disturb the wire just use a standard rubber grommet and cut on side to allow it to fit arounf the wire, then roll it into the hole in the rad support. That being said, as a rule of thumb, never hook anything to the battery unless it's fused. A salvaged fusible link is a good plan, it doesn't really matter what its current rating is, as long as its greater than the normal load from the ignition. It's purpose is not so much to protect the ignition box as to protect against a dead short in the wiring.
BTW its interesting to note that this thread is completely Canadian - so far!
Joined: Mon Feb 20 2006, 08:12PM
Location: Ontario,Canada
Posts: 950
I noticed the canadian touch to this thread... But I think I have the best weather..lol
I'll get a grommet for the hole.. I don't need a spark show... I'll add a fuse at the battery.. I used heat shrink over all the connections too.. to make sure water doesn't get in there..
The neat thing about this kit is they have a neat little attchment that can go on the connection you see in the pic.. if the ignition fails then you can convert back to stock in 5 seconds.. pretty smart I thought..
I'm going for an old school look.. much like what would have been done in the 70's..
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
Yes, being able to go back to stock is an outstanding ability, especially if it craps out far from home. I have an old 78 IHC Scout 4x4 that uses a gold box that is prone to quitting at the worse times. Once its dead you're done, so I've been forced to always travel with a spare $120 box.