Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
I don't think it makes much difference what fluid you use as long as its thin. I've used both auto transmission fluid and power steering fluid without any problems. Since the duty cycle is sporadic at best, all you really need is any thin oil.
Years ago I made some trim tabs for a boat, each had its own cylinder and motor giving me independent control over each side. As it turned out, one side used ATF and the other power steering fluid - mostly because I only had just enough of each to fill one side when I put it together. One of the cylinders and motors were from a Chev and the other from a Ford. Both were near as darn exactly the same as those in my vert.
Joined: Sat Apr 01 2006, 01:25AM
Location: Yakima, WA
Posts: 142
I'm going to get a new top for my '68 Newport convertible. It went up and down fine untill a while back . Now it goes down OK, but needs some manual help to get it put up. Since it goes down OK, I don't think it's the motor. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
Check the oil plug hole on the end of the motor and make sure is has oil up to the bottom of the hole. If it is low air can get in the lines, but will purge out if you cycle the top a few times. Recheck the oil level as you'll need to add some as the air comes out of the lines.
If the oil level isn't a problem, then it sounds like the top is binding. The best way to check this is pull the pins locking the top mechanism to the lift cylinders so that you can raise and lower the top by hand. You should be able to feel whats binding.
Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
The pump motor won't sound too happy if it's got trapped air - gurgling and screeching under load. If it's just slow, it could be binding or the pump and/or cylinders are tired. Pulling the pins in the rear cylinders and having a friend help you raise & lower the top manually is the best way of seeing what's what with the framework. To bleed the pump and fill it to the correct level, I purchased a bleeder kit from Hydro-e-letric a while back. If you want to make the exact tool, here's what they sent me: 1.a 1 1/2 - 2 quart tupperware round container with lid 2.a 3 ft length of clear vinyl hose 5/16" ID dia. 3.a 3" section of 5/16" metal brake line shoved into a rubber stopper sanded to fit tightly in the pump's fill hole
The lid has two holes punched in it - one for the hose and one for a vent. You fill the bowl with auto trans fluid and snap on the lid. The hose went from the bottom of the tupperware bowl (under the fluid level) to the rubber stopper inserted in the pump fill hole. There has to be some fluid in the pump already. Then you run the top up and down a few cycles until it no longer makes the noise and the top works smoothly. remove the stopper and put the screw plug back in and it's finished. You can pour what's left of the fluid back into it's bottles and save it for next time.
Trim shops are a crap shoot... I got estimates from $285 to $800 to INSTALL the top I brought to them. I'll shop around a bit longer before I drop any coin having someone else do that job. The top that's on my car now is an obvious replacement, and it doesn't appear to have been done very well.
I've got two tops for my Fury, a new white top from Kee Auto Tops via Legendary (Dante's Parts), and what appears to be an original black top, still on the frame. I'm going to try installing the black one while I get the car back on the road, and will do the white one after I get the car painted. That is, unless I get comfortable with the kind of work the shops do, AND have the cash to have it done. But then, what would I do with my killer air-powered stapler?