I think they're only used in clutch-type SG's. Cone types (69-up, or -489 cases) have a thrust block that rides on the cross-shaft for the spider gears. The thrust buttons - aka boogers - are steel things that look like wide-head bolts, with no flats on the head, and no threads on the shank. They have a small hole through the axis that you push a roll pin through. It's not a true roll pin, but a pin that you spread the end out on after it's in place to keep the two buttons in place.
If the buttons are missing, you won't be able to adjust the wheel bearings. The buttons basically get sandwiched between the axles, and the axle preload is set by turning the adjuster in to get the spec.
Ok Thanks! My SureGrip is a Cone. I was really starting to worry there. There wasn't anything like that in mine. I picked the whole pig up at a swap, afraid I missed something.
Joined: Sat Aug 19 2006, 05:03PM
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2919
I made sure to check that my clutch-style SG still had them before I bought it. I didnt know about the pin though. If the pin is installed, why do the thrust buttons go missing? ...or was that an afterthought and not in factory units?
Joined: Thu Oct 13 2005, 05:11PM
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 124
stitcherbob wrote ... To put the bronze thrust "boogers" (as was previously stated ) back in when they stick to the axles (and they will!) I hot glued them to a long wooden dowel and put sticky grease on the other end. After fishing them though the housing and into place in the carrier, you can bend the dowel a little and the glue will pop off the polished bearing end, leaving the "boogers" in place....worked for me when I put a '65 NYKR suregrip 2.76 8 3/4" rear in my '83 Cordoba when the 2.26 7 1/4" rear blew !thumb
Hey, boogers, buttons, at least I got the first letter right! Really, I sometimes have trouble calling up a word I need and wind up spitting out something similar, almost always with the correct first letter, kinda weird.
Anyway, booger is a good one for what you and I have done. After several really bad ideas, including a long extendable mechanics magnet, I came up with the vacuum cleaner. Electrical tape, half inch rubber fuel line, a 3 foot piece of 3/8" steel fuel line and a short piece of 3/8" rubber fuel line to make a "seal" to the button head end and I was good to go. After I got it in place I just shut off the vacuum and pulled my jury rigged tool back out, worked pretty darn well.
I think your wooden dowel idea is better, too bad I don't have one and didn't think of it. The 3' piece of steel fuel line is too short, I think? Mebbe it was 2'? I hope I never have to do it again, but if I do I've got some more ammo for the problem!
Joined: Thu Oct 13 2005, 05:11PM
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 124
Mike66Chryslers wrote ... I made sure to check that my clutch-style SG still had them before I bought it. I didnt know about the pin though. If the pin is installed, why do the thrust buttons go missing? ...or was that an afterthought and not in factory units?
The pin is kind of chintzy, I think it was for assembly line ease. The buttons lose their grip on the pin then when you pull the axle the button frequently comes with it. Of course mine only came out far enough with the axle to drop into the bottom of the pumpkin. It's a pain in the posterior.
Robert
<span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Thu Jan 11 2007, 09:04PM ]</span>