I am still loking for a Sure-grip for my 66. What are the basic steps to pull out the old and put in the new(to me). And what are the common errors in this process. Also what to look at while I am there?
Joined: Sun Sep 24 2006, 10:33PM
Location: Lisle, Ill.
Posts: 168
Well, the easiest way is to find the entire center section all set up and ready to go. New guts assembled can run from like $600 and on up. I found a used SG center section all assembled for my '66 New Yorker at the Mopar Nats in Columbus last year for $240, and it works pretty well.
As far as install goes, pretty basic. Put the car in the air, pull the rear u-joint off the rearend. Pull the driveshaft. Pull the rear tires and drums. Unbolt the axles through the little holes in the flange, and pull out. [may take a little tugging, you can leave them in the rearend after you get them out about 6 inches, for cleanliness' sake] Then remove the nuts around the center section, leaving a few on a few threads. Then seperate the rearend from the housing. [big screwdriver or prybar, maybe a hammer. Make sure you have a pan underneath!] Then out it should come. Be forewarned, it is very heavy when reaching out to your side to hold it up. If you intend on reusing your old carrier [big cast iron hunk], I would recommend having a shop set up your new stuff. It's time intensive and involves some special tools. [dial indicator, inchpound non click torque wrench, etc.] Kindof out of the home mechanic's reach as far as complexity. Installation is opposite of removal, except maybe use some silicone to seal up your center section. Don't forget to add gear oil up to the level of the fill hole. And that's it. Done it 5 or 6 times on my New Yorker...blew up two open rearends doing burnouts. Good luck!
Dave pretty much covered it, but a couple extra notes. - Don't forget to use the limited slip additive in oil gear lube when you install the Suregrip. - If you completely remove the axles, be careful to not damage the oil seals when they come out and go back in. - Those center sections are stupid heavy! Try using a floor jack to help hold it up. - Gear lube is super stinky, try to keep it off you. - It is usually recommended that the bolts in the pinion yoke be replaced when removed. When upgrading to a SureGrip, they will be under even more stress.
Joined: Thu Oct 13 2005, 05:11PM
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 124
66 Furious wrote ... I am still loking for a Sure-grip for my 66. What are the basic steps to pull out the old and put in the new(to me). And what are the common errors in this process. Also what to look at while I am there?
Thanks again Brian.
PS I am still looking for a sure grip !thumb
Whatever you do, don't forget to check for the little thrust boogers!
Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
To put the bronze thrust "boogers" (as was previously stated ) back in when they stick to the axles (and they will!) I hot glued them to a long wooden dowel and put sticky grease on the other end. After fishing them though the housing and into place in the carrier, you can bend the dowel a little and the glue will pop off the polished bearing end, leaving the "boogers" in place....worked for me when I put a '65 NYKR suregrip 2.76 8 3/4" rear in my '83 Cordoba when the 2.26 7 1/4" rear blew !thumb
<span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Thu Jan 11 2007, 12:20AM ]</span>
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 01:49PM
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 421
They are shims, I guess is what they are called, they slide inside the splined guts of the SG. They can be a pain to get back in, thankfully I got to ditch em when I went with the Detroit Locker... !drive <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Thu Jan 11 2007, 07:09AM ]</span>