Joined: Fri Mar 09 2007, 02:34PM
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 661
OK I'm stumped. I broke down on the way home from work. I thought it was the fuel pump. It got worse and worse where it wouldn't even stay running anymore. It would could, pop, and sometimes backfire. I replaced the plugs, wires, fuel filter and coil recently.
So Sunday it broke down on the way home from work and I got it towed home. Today I put in a new fuel pump. Its definitely getting gas. The battery was dead from constant starting so I charged it up at work. I try to start it and it runs for a second or two then dies. So it has to be an electronic part. So is it the distributor? The ballast resistor? The module? There's only 4 electrical parts on the whole damn car so it can't be too complicated.
Joined: Wed Nov 17 2010, 03:28PM
Location: florida
Posts: 1311
i just had a distributor cap issue from corrosion on the brass terminals which caused all sorts of popping and rough running motor.in the past I've had, and a lot of others, issues using stock orange,chrome and gold boxes so i switched to a crane cd ignition. ballast are cheap and can cause a motor not to run so easy fix.check for excessive play is distributor shaft and reluctor gap.check plugs and wires for cracks .check ground on ignition box and block.bad ignition switch can be a bugger too if its going bad.
Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
Did you check wear on the rod that runs the fuel pump?? Seen them wear to the point they wont run the pump anymore. Double check the fuel lines. Especially look for any kinks in the rubber lines where they attach to the steel line going into the stub frame right side. Today's quality of fuel can eat rubber fuel lines from the inside out. As for the electrical,If you had no spark,it will not run.PERIOD. But as a process of elimination/diagnostic,try a fresh ballast resistor (cheap) and/or a spare coil and ECU. Make sure you have good ground on the ECU. Make sure you got full 12 volts going into the ECU and 9 going to the coil. In the carb,the TQ have a habit if the floats sticking. Also there is an O-ring between the plastic bowl and base.It too can be rotten and cause the symptom you are describing. Sure she is getting fuel..but too much?? Not enough?? Double check ALL rubber vacuum lines. 440's are sensitive to any vacuum leaks---been there,done that,too. Hope this helps.
Joined: Wed Jun 20 2007, 06:50PM
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 80
Sounds stupid but have you replaced the fuel filter? If the system is full of junk it may be clogging it up. Happened on my Cordoba. 40 year old car with 11,xxx original miles and original from day one fuel filter. When I removed it and dumped the contents was rust colored gas and particle city. Cheap enough to give it a shot.
Joined: Fri Mar 09 2007, 02:34PM
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 661
John W. Miller wrote ...
Sounds stupid but have you replaced the fuel filter? If the system is full of junk it may be clogging it up. Happened on my Cordoba. 40 year old car with 11,xxx original miles and original from day one fuel filter. When I removed it and dumped the contents was rust colored gas and particle city. Cheap enough to give it a shot.
Hey John, thanks, yes I just replaced the fuel filter. My situation is different than your Cordoba, Ive had my car for 14 years and drive it nearly every day. But I did replace it anyway.
Joined: Fri Mar 09 2007, 02:34PM
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 661
68Cbarge wrote ...
Did you check wear on the rod that runs the fuel pump?? Seen them wear to the point they wont run the pump anymore. Double check the fuel lines. Especially look for any kinks in the rubber lines where they attach to the steel line going into the stub frame right side. Today's quality of fuel can eat rubber fuel lines from the inside out. As for the electrical,If you had no spark,it will not run.PERIOD. But as a process of elimination/diagnostic,try a fresh ballast resistor (cheap) and/or a spare coil and ECU. Make sure you have good ground on the ECU. Make sure you got full 12 volts going into the ECU and 9 going to the coil. In the carb,the TQ have a habit if the floats sticking. Also there is an O-ring between the plastic bowl and base.It too can be rotten and cause the symptom you are describing. Sure she is getting fuel..but too much?? Not enough?? Double check ALL rubber vacuum lines. 440's are sensitive to any vacuum leaks---been there,done that,too. Hope this helps.
Well, the motor has a lot of miles on it, but I think the rod between the pump and cam is good. It appears to be pumping fuel. I need to get some new clamps as it is leaking. I have an extra ballast resistor so I'll try that and checking the grounds on the ecu after I ensure that no gas is not leaking. I sure hope its not the TQ because I really dont feel like taking it back to the guy who rebuilt it. I hope it's something cheap. I am broke and don't have the money to start dumping money into this thing. Otherwise one of you can have it.
Joined: Fri Mar 09 2007, 02:34PM
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 661
Well, after several days of sitting, it did start again.
I tightened the fasteners holding the ECU, checked the harness to it, popped the cap on the dizzy, no cracks, contacts don't seem bad. Checked the wires to the coil. I gave the TQ a pump, ans it's definitely sqirting fuel. I have two other ballast resistors and tried a different one and it started. I let it warm up and clear of the excess gas and it ran for a while. Loud as hell because both mufflers are blown out. I took it for a ride around the neighborhood and seemed OK for the most part.
This morning I decided I would get gas and take it on errands. It made it to the gas station and then conked out. It would start, then die. Over and over. AT the gas station, I changed back to the old coil and tried my other ballast resistors. Finally it ran long enough to get home around the corner but conked out. It then started again.
About 4 years ago, it sat dead for two weeks. At that time, I got a new ballast, ecu, coil and magnetic pickup. For the most part, it's been reliable until recently. Of late it's been hard to start, but once it starts for the day, it fires over instantly.
I'm thinking of getting a new multi-meter and testing the electronic parts.
It definitely getting gas and the fuel lines seem to be OK. I haven't been brave enough to open the TQ to check the floats.
Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
OK...Hard starting?? Runs OK?? Not too rich?? Do the secondaries work/open up?? Reason I asked is you mentioned the TQ was rebuilt. The choke and secondaries' linkage are tied together. If not adjusted properly,the carb will not be happy. But that is not your biggest concern. Something is burning up your ballast resistors. I would check to make sure there are no switched (hot with key on) broken/loose wires grounding out somewhere. A backfeed can suck the juice outa the ignition system to the point of conking out. Get the multi-meter!!!
Joined: Fri Mar 09 2007, 02:34PM
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 661
Yes the secondaries work, it ran on Wed or Thurs for a little, enough that I took it on the main road and floored it.
Just for the hell of it, this morning I went and bought a 4th ballast resistor and put it on. The car started on the second try and ran for a few minutes. As I was about to get my timing light, it conked out again.
I tried a couple of more times but I got the same. It would start then die. I'll try again maybe tomorrow.