Joined: Sat Mar 29 2008, 03:36PM
Location: North eastern Wis.
Posts: 1638
waginator wrote ...
Yes, the round thing next to the pump is the new fuel filter.
Oops got ya. It might still be getting plugged again if the tank or lines have a lot of gunk in them. Yours looks clear enough to see if it is getting clogged.
I don't mean to be a smart A$$ but it's time to diagnose and stop just throwing parts at it. I agree you need the multi-meter.
I wish you luck, could be fuel or ignition related. These things can be a pain. Have faith, you'll get it.
Joined: Fri Mar 09 2007, 02:34PM
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 661
OK, so I got a diagnosis: My distrubutor and pick-up are bad.
Three blocks from my store is a guy named Kenny Montgomery Jr. His father was a stock car racer. Ever hear of triple nickel? He has a garage that works on newer cars but he still has all the old eqipment like a SUN machine, distributor machine, and a C-4166 ignition tester like the one shown in chapter 8 of my 1973 factory manual. My spark box tested OK. Two ballast resistors tested OK. The distributor is worn and the magnet is no good.
Before I get a rebuilt unit from my store, I'm going to check the site here to see if anyone has a 440 distributor lying around.
Anyone? Got a stock or perf distributor collecting dust in your garage?
Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
waginator wrote ...
OK, so I got a diagnosis: My distrubutor and pick-up are bad.
Three blocks from my store is a guy named Kenny Montgomery Jr. His father was a stock car racer. He has a garage that works on newer cars but he still has all the old eqipment like a SUN machine, distributor machine, and a C-4166 igntion tester like the one shown in chapter 8 of my 1973 factory manual. My spark box tested OK. Two ballast resistors tested OK. The distributor is worn and the magnet is no good.
Before I get a rebuilt unit from my store, I'm going to check the site here to see if anyone has a 440 distributor lying around.
Anyone? Got a stock or perf distributor collecting dust in your garage?
Get a brandy new one from Summit.They are already recurved and work better than a parts jobber unit. SUM-850005-1 or for 20 bux more comes with a matching ECU,ballast,and harness SUM-850005
Joined: Fri Mar 09 2007, 02:34PM
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 661
[/quote1492863334] Get a brandy new one from Summit.They are already recurved and work better than a parts jobber unit. SUM-850005-1 or for 20 bux more comes with a matching ECU,ballast,and harness SUM-850005
[/quote1492879267]
I looked at it. It's awesome, but I really can't do $180 for a distributor right now. If nothing else, I'll just have to get it from Advance where I work.
Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
waginator wrote ...
[/quote1492863334] Get a brandy new one from Summit.They are already recurved and work better than a parts jobber unit. SUM-850005-1 or for 20 bux more comes with a matching ECU,ballast,and harness SUM-850005
[/quote1492879267]
I looked at it. It's awesome, but I really can't do $180 for a distributor right now. If nothing else, I'll just have to get it from Advance where I work
I understand. Get her running first,then see if it needs a recurve afterwards.
Joined: Fri Mar 09 2007, 02:34PM
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 661
Well, after looking through the classifieds on cbodydrydock, moparts.org, craigslist and ebay, decided to just go with a dizzy from my store.
With my discount, it was about $55 for a new one, with vacuum advance, cap and rotor.
After putting it in and trying several times to start it, my battery ran down again. While I put the battery on slow charge for about an hour, I saw that I had a broken wire.
I also noticed that the new cap was backwards. It didn't start partially because I had the cap on backwards. I transferred the spark plug wires from my old tan cap to the new one using the vent for reference. It took me a while to notice that the vent was on the opposite side.
After I corrected the position of the wires on the cap to match the latch, the car started. After it warmed up and the idle smoothed out, I set the timing by ear and got it close to the 10* BTDC. Later I found my timing light and put it at 10*. The chain is not slack. The groove on the crank pulley was in the same position every time the strobe flashed.
It runs better than it has for a while, but there is still a stumble to the idle, and acceleration still has some hesitation. I might ask Kenny Montgomery to look at it now that it's drivable.
Before I really drive it, I have to get underneath it to see what I can do about the mufflers. The backfiring blew them apart. The noise through the RPM"S is deafening.
Joined: Fri Mar 09 2007, 02:34PM
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 661
Is there anywhere I can buy this connector with a length of wire? I call it a chrysler connector but it looks like it's called a Rubber Molded 2 Pin Wire Connector Plug.
Joined: Wed Aug 11 2010, 10:15AM
Location: E WA
Posts: 1230
waginator wrote ...
Is there anywhere I can buy this connector with a length of wire? I call it a chrysler connector but it looks like it's called a Rubber Molded 2 Pin Wire Connector Plug.