Joined: Fri May 08 2009, 10:41PM
Location: Finger Lakes, NY
Posts: 315
I have a nephew building a FoMoCo stroker for his truck in my barn and it got me thinking. What if I stroked the 383 in my Newport?
I know the basics of what it will do for torque and HP. I like the idea of much more torque for the beast. It is and will not be a race car.
My question is how is a stroked engine for driveablility? Does it significantly change the engine sound / noise? Will I have to upgrade the rest of my drive train?
I live in a hilly area and more torque to get up hills is always welcome.
BTW - The care is a 68 Newport 4D Hard Top w/ 2bbl 383.
The pieces are a lot of money to spend on a little 383. If you are going to do a stroker start with a B 400 block or RB 440.
In your case, you can wake that 383 up with a decent 2.5" dual exhaust, aluminum intake manifold and 4 bbl carb. I recommend TTI exhaust, Edelbrock Performer intake, and an Edelbrock 650 cfm AVS carb (Thunder series). You'll also have to get the Edelbrock part to lengthen the transmission kick down linkage rod. You can go another step and put in a Lunati Voodo or Comp XE cam in the 262 degree range.
You will be surprised how much more power you'll have for 1/2 the price of just the parts for a stroker motor.
The pieces are a lot of money to spend on a little 383. If you are going to do a stroker start with a B 400 block or RB 440.
In your case, you can wake that 383 up with a decent 2.5" dual exhaust, aluminum intake manifold and 4 bbl carb. I recommend TTI exhaust, Edelbrock Performer intake, and an Edelbrock 650 cfm AVS carb (Thunder series). You'll also have to get the Edelbrock part to lengthen the transmission kick down linkage rod. You can go another step and put in a Lunati Voodo or Comp XE cam in the 262 degree range.
You will be surprised how much more power you'll have for 1/2 the price of just the parts for a stroker motor.
I've already upgraded to a 4bbl. I have HP exhaust manifolds to put on when I covert to a duel exhaust and have considered a new cam at some point. My question is really how is driveability etc. with a stroker?
Joined: Thu Mar 22 2007, 08:13AM
Location: In the workshop
Posts: 1063
Admittedly, this is a 30 thou over 440 and not a 383, but this is how much torque can be obtained is you deliberately build an engine without regards to horsepower. Theres enough to get a C up hills!
Joined: Wed Aug 11 2010, 10:15AM
Location: E WA
Posts: 1230
Uncle Joe wrote ...
Admittedly, this is a 30 thou over 440 and not a 383, but this is how much torque can be obtained is you deliberately build an engine without regards to horsepower. Theres enough to get a C up hills!
That is quite a 440. I see 666 ft lbs torque and 538 Hp. So what did you do to build this engine?
Back to the original question the 383 with a 440 crank is about 431 cu inch so not much shy of a 440. If you go to a 400 block with a 440 crank you are about 451 cu in so you only pick up about 20 cu over a 383. I am going through similar thought process for my 67 Polara 500 Convertible. I have the original 383 which I could rebuild as is or stroke. I also have a 1972 440 block which I could rebuild as is or stroke.
My preference right now is to go with the 440 with 440 source heads. It is all down the roads a ways.
Joined: Thu Mar 22 2007, 08:13AM
Location: In the workshop
Posts: 1063
flj wrote ... That is quite a 440. I see 666 ft lbs torque and 538 Hp. So what did you do to build this engine?
Own cam, mild enough to give 19" Hg at idle, 800AVS carb, ported-by-me aluminium -452 heads, HP manifolds, and just short of 1000 hours labour. I would have preferred to have used a 750 VS Holley as it should have improved things slightly in this particular case.
Joined: Wed Dec 21 2005, 07:34AM
Location: indiana
Posts: 791
flj wrote ...
Back to the original question the 383 with a 440 crank is about 431 cu inch so not much shy of a 440. If you go to a 400 block with a 440 crank you are about 451 cu in so you only pick up about 20 cu over a 383. I am going through similar thought process for my 67 Polara 500 Convertible. I have the original 383 which I could rebuild as is or stroke. I also have a 1972 440 block which I could rebuild as is or stroke.
My preference right now is to go with the 440 with 440 source heads. It is all down the roads a ways.
Also consider that there’s more to this than just the final cid, there’s also bore sizes. The 383 has a much smaller bore than the 400 (which has the largest bore), and the smaller bore limits you on valve sizes and breathing. Probably not a big deal for C usage, but something people should consider depending on their goals.
I agree with Krautmaster, if the 383-2 is healthy add a smaller Voodoo and related upgrades (which you could maybe use for a stroker anyway?) and see what happens. For traveling thru hills I wonder how the -516 heads would do, as those would increase compression vs the -906 a 68 would have, and the smaller valves/ports should increase velocity, which helps lower-rpm torque.
And for anyone considering 440Source heads, be aware that there are several new players for BB heads. Sidewinder, ProMaxx and Trick Flow. I have read a bit on all 3 and they all appear to be high-quality pieces with good reviews, and the Sidewinders are quite affordable too. ProMaxx is said to be formerly Patriot Cylinder Head from Alabama, family owned for a long time, then bought by someone who carried on the tradition, and retained a lot of skilled employees (including the former owner).
