Joined: Tue Mar 12 2013, 11:31AM
Location: Germany
Posts: 70
I wrote that I can have better fuel, because you said that I would need better fuel for higher compression. I wanted to say that I already use the right fuel, so I can get higher compression.
And because of the higher usage of the suspension (I noticed that myself when the upper controle arm broke loose) I am changing to smaller wheels in the front.
Also I would love to get a 2 snorkel air cleaner. I am searching the whole time. It seems easier to get one of those silenced ones (for 300 bucks). I bought the car with the chrome one in it.
Are there any other things like special spark plugs or anything.
And I still have the questions about dialing in the distributor perfectly, degreeing the cam in (break in?) and the gear change, monaco has mentioned.
Joined: Tue Mar 12 2013, 11:31AM
Location: Germany
Posts: 70
when I get myself a dual snorkel air cleaner, which one should I get? There the old original ones with an without hoses to the front and I've also seen one with adapters so that one of those modern air filters is on each snorkel.
I'm trying to follow your thoughts and requesting's.
Here is a link showing what most Duel Snorkel Air Cleaners look like. As you look at these --- remember that since 1963 The Air Cleaner Unit for The Imperial Division and The Chrysler Division are all painted Black. The Red was what The Plymouth and Dodge Division's used.
Joined: Tue Mar 12 2013, 11:31AM
Location: Germany
Posts: 70
A black one is absolutely what I want. Thats awesome. I will use my old TQ forever. It's a nice carburetor. Did chrysler use these at the same time as they used those air cleaners? The site you posted is nice. I could look at it all day. Thank you
Joined: Sat Mar 29 2008, 03:36PM
Location: North eastern Wis.
Posts: 1638
I always took my distributors to a speed shop for a re-curve, as it's a little to complicated for me. Maybe the mopar shop you mentioned could help you do this. If not there are aftermarket distributor kits available. As for cams , I would recommend talking to the cam companies as you want one for your specific build. They will be able to recommend the best fit for your needs. Like mentioned, read everything you can find. Just asking advise on the internet can be enlightening and helpful, but also disappointing and expensive. I guess what I am saying is, lean toward technical data and not so much opinion. Don't get me wrong the folks here on the Dock are very insightful and helpful. Again good luck and have fun. Be safe out on that autobahn. I here it gets fast out there. Oh one more thing. Thinking of your control arm breaking on you. make sure you have all your suspension and brakes squared away before trying to go faster. My motto has always been whoa before go.
Joined: Tue Mar 12 2013, 11:31AM
Location: Germany
Posts: 70
The suspension and everything is all new now. I also thought about getting a new ignition-system but they seem expensive and mine is working. I will do like you did and take it to a shop. Thank you guys for helping.
Joined: Fri Aug 05 2011, 08:06PM
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 132
The only thing that will give you more power below 3000 rpm is a compression increase, new alloy heads will give you that and some more top end, if you are not worried about the top end, then just get what you have machined down
Joined: Sat Nov 15 2008, 08:27PM
Location: NE Pennsylvania
Posts: 428
The US and Canada have used the Research and Motor octane numbers averaged together to come up with the numbers posted on our gasoline pumps since about 1975. The rest of the world uses the Research octane number only (as the US and Canada did before '75.) A stock '74 400 would have been spec'd for regular leaded, low-lead or unleaded gasoline of at least 91 Research octane - or current US/Canada 87 pump octane (Research + Motor octane/2). The Research octane tends to run 4 to 5 numbers higher than the current US pump numbers, so 90 octane fuel in Germany (Research method) would likely be rated at 86 pump octane here in the US today. German 93 would probably be 89 in the US - so on and so forth. From what I have read, current US 93 octane Premium is rated at 98 octane elsewhere.
Depending upon how your 400 is tuned, that 90 Research octane fuel might be a bit low. If you hear any spark knock (ping) under load, switch to a higher octane.
Joined: Tue Mar 12 2013, 11:31AM
Location: Germany
Posts: 70
as I wrote, there is no fuel lower than 95 research octane (ROZ) fuel in germany. The lowest octane EVER used in germany (serveral years ago) was 91 ROZ. So I use 95 octane and sometimes add a little bit of "lead-replacement" (really rarely). Should I later switch to 98 ROZ when I have the new heads with 9,2 or 9,5:1 compression?
Now that I am working with the timing: is switching to more octane better for more agressive timing for acceleration?