Be careful pulling the pan off, don't forget that pickup tube is in there. It is pretty stout, but bending it will be bad.
The tie rods, pitman and idler should all be available locally. Napa has them listed on their website. Be prepared, those pitmans are pricey! I don't know if the pitmans are user rebuildable. If the ball is sticking as in hard to move, that is good. Be concerned when they are sloppy.
If it is a factory sway bar, you might have to replace the whole end links. There was a discussion on this awhile back, at that point no one was able to come up with any. You can call around, but Firm Feel or PST are probably where you will end up.
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 12:51AM
Location: california
Posts: 143
NFURY8 wrote ... Be careful pulling the pan off, don't forget that pickup tube is in there. It is pretty stout, but bending it will be bad.
The tie rods, pitman and idler should all be available locally. Napa has them listed on their website. Be prepared, those pitmans are pricey! I don't know if the pitmans are user rebuildable. If the ball is sticking as in hard to move, that is good. Be concerned when they are sloppy.
If it is a factory sway bar, you might have to replace the whole end links. There was a discussion on this awhile back, at that point no one was able to come up with any. You can call around, but Firm Feel or PST are probably where you will end up.
From what your'e telling me, i guess a pitman replacement isnt needed...the ball is not loose or anything just hard to move like you described.
Pricey $250.00 but looks like it has all the components i need
Each Kit Includes
* 2 Upper Ball Joints * 2 Lower Ball Joints * 4 Upper Inner Control Arm Bushings * 2 Lower Inner Control Arm Bushings * 2 Strut Rod Bushings * 2 Outer Tie Rod Ends * 2 Stabilizer Links , Bolt and sleeve type links only. * 2 Sway Bar Bushings (for most models) * Control Arm Bumpers (for most models)
But this kit doesn't have the two inner tie rod ends and the idler arm bushing?? Seems incomplete??
<span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Sun Aug 13 2006, 11:58PM ]</span>
If you want to do it all, which can make an amazing difference, there is no cheaper way to get those lower ball joints! The missing inners can easily be picked up locally. But you can also just mention them when you order and they will add them on for $20 each. Quite a few people here, including myself, have used that kit. Best bang for the buck out there on suspension parts!
You might want to call PST and Just Suspension, but looking at the website the Just Suspension kit is twice as much. JS also doesn't mention inner tie rods or the sway bar links and bushings.
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 12:51AM
Location: california
Posts: 143
NFURY8 wrote ... You might want to call PST and Just Suspension, but looking at the website the Just Suspension kit is twice as much. JS also doesn't mention inner tie rods or the sway bar links and bushings.
YEah the JS setup is 475.00...whew. PST is 250 plus 40.00 for the inner tie rods and 15.00 for idler bushing. So into that for just over 300.00. I also order new KYB shocks...lol..i'm on a roll. I figure since this is all related, and the car is up on stands (and i dont want to do this again), this is a good time to tackle the front end.
Question... JS lists a few tools needed to do all of this install correctly. Can i rent most of those or should i buy the tools??? Are there more specialized tools than these i might need???
THey are:
Upper ball joint socket Torsion bar remover/installer???
I plan on taking digital photos of my endeavor here...then post em for all to see.
The ball joint socket is nice to have. Their price is decent, but I have seen them as low as $10. The T-Bar tool isn't that critical. Once the weight is off the suspension, and the ball joints are unhooked, the T-bars usually come out with just a little yanking. Don't forget the rear retainer. I usually unbolt the strut rods and control arm first. Then if the T-bar doesn't slide right out, knock the control arm out and then you can wiggle it to free up the front T-bar mount.
If the suspension it still original, it is going to feel like a new car!! Those KYBs are pretty nice!
Other special tools: Big dead blow mallet, ball joint puller and a big 3/4" set of sockets and breaker or torque wrench are all pretty handy. [ Edited Mon Aug 14 2006, 01:33AM ]
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 12:51AM
Location: california
Posts: 143
NFURY8 wrote ... The ball joint socket is nice to have. Their price is decent, but I have seen them as low as $10. The T-Bar tool isn't that critical. Once the weight is off the suspension, and the ball joints are unhooked, the T-bars usually come out with just a little yanking. Don't forget the rear retainer. I usually unbolt the strut rods and control arm first. Then if the T-bar doesn't slide right out, knock the control arm out and then you can wiggle it to free up the front T-bar mount.
If the suspension it still original, it is going to feel like a new car!! Those KYBs are pretty nice!
Yeah its original ...and the T bar adjusters have been adjusted wrong...the front sits too low. Yeah after reading all the reviews the KYB's seem to be the best shocks for the money...I'll definately be enjoying those
At first I thought they weren't stiff enough, but now I have put a couple thousand miles on it. They feel just right, rides just like a modern full size car. Does your car have any body roll? The stock sway bar is 3/4", the aftermarkets are 1". I added in a 1" bar with the KYBs and the PST kit, the car has NO roll and corners like a dream. I have heard that the new 1" bars can make a noticable difference over the stock 3/4". Something to ponder.
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 12:51AM
Location: california
Posts: 143
NFURY8 wrote ... At first I thought they weren't stiff enough, but now I have put a couple thousand miles on it. They feel just right, rides just like a modern full size car. Does your car have any body roll? The stock sway bar is 3/4", the aftermarkets are 1". I added in a 1" bar with the KYBs and the PST kit, the car has NO roll and corners like a dream. I have heard that the new 1" bars can make a noticable difference over the stock 3/4". Something to ponder.
you know for all original suspension, blown out shocks, and the sheer size of my Newport, all in all it doesn't handle all that bad. It does have body roll, but i drive through a canyon every day to work and ill be darned...this boat can take turns to everyones surprise. I routinely get tailgaited because i drive the speed limit, but i like to show some of these people that i'm not driving slow because my car cant handle a turn.... I'll have to look into a sway bar upgrade...right now i'm already into the car about $600 for these new changes (not including the exhaust work)...and i am thinking new wheels and tires...ehhhh never ends!! haha But if you saw how the car looked when i bought it, to now...huge difference. Plus it just loves to drive and drive and drive!
