Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 12:51AM
Location: california
Posts: 143
I just bought a shiny new Oil pan that i know is going to give me like 15extra hp...lol jk Ok my old one was cracked and so dirty i figured this would be the best route.
It looks like its going to be a pain in the butt to remove the old one? There seems to be a huge suspension piece running right under it, and i dont know if i should attempt trying to get this thing out if its going to be a huge pain to remove the suspension bar in the way???
Is it necassary to, or is there some trick to wiggling this thing out?
Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
You'll probably have to disconnect the motor mounts and jack up the engine to make room. Haven't done it on a "C" yet, so someone else will know more.....
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
This isn't like changing an air filter you know.
Engine HAS to be lifted, WAY UP, maybe the center link has to be dropped, pan has to be fenessed out, gaskets have to be scrapped. . . . There may be some other things that have to be done to lift the engine high enough
If you don't have the tools or the want too. . .Send it out.
Given how this thread has gone so far, are you sure you have the correct pan for a C body? And you got one with a windage tray in it? I can think of 10 other ways to get 15 more horse power with 10% the work.
<span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Sun Aug 13 2006, 01:02AM ]</span>
Bob & Steve pretty much covered it. I assume we are talking about the 383 mentioned in your signiture. That helps a little, at least the pan rails are flat. I have done a small block still in the car before, that really sucks!
The drag link under the pan is part of the steering. Drop it where it attaches to the pittman and idler, this should give you clearance without messing with the tie rods and alignment. The motor has to be lifted to get the room to access all the bolts, since the pan hangs over the front of the cross member. Then you need the room to manuever the pan out and it has to come down quite a bit to clear the oil pickup hanging down.
It isn't impossible, but as Steve mentioned, it is some work.
Steve is also hits a very important note on the correct pan. Does your new pan have the notch in the drivers side of the sump to clear the pittman arm? B Body pans will not fit a C. If it is a stock pan it should be stamped either 187 or 699. The 933 pan was used after 73 on C's, but the notch isn't as big. I have been told the 933 also works, but do not know of anyone actually using it. If it is an aftermarket, it will probably not work. Unless it specifically says C or A body. A body cars require the same notch in the sump. If it is an aftermarket and has the clearence, PLEASE share the model info!!! To date I am not aware of any aftermarket C Body pans, without hand modifications.
Not trying to be a kill joy, but thought I might elaborate more on Bob and Steves posts.
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 05:02PM
Location: ALLEN PARK, MI.
Posts: 2007
Get the mig welder out......cause I doubt it has ANY notch for a C body, let alone A body! No aftermarket pan SO FAR has one! The SHINEY pan you describe.....a CHROME one by chance? Poor choice if it was. Chrome holds in heat! A NO-NO for engine or trans oil pans! A rear end? No biggie. Chrome oil filters? Another NO-NO! Tony P.
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 12:51AM
Location: california
Posts: 143
I was being a bit facetious, about the pan....i don't expect any performance difference guys..lol Its not chrome, or windaged...just oem replacement (shiny because its new not full of old dirty and sludge). But all the other info helps, i guess i may be putting this project off for a bit until the need becomes greater. As is there is really nothing wrong with the pan on there, but i do have a few leaks on the gasket and a previous hole that was fixed that i always wanted to not worry about by putting a new pan on. Guess ill have to wait until my engine blows to do the pan, i am not motivated enought to go that far into the job as yet.
Joined: Sat Oct 22 2005, 07:55PM
Location: ILLINOIS
Posts: 63
YOU DO NOT NEED TO RAISE THE MOTOR. THE BOLTS TOWARD THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE CAN BE REMOVED WITH A LONG EXTENSION AND A 1/2 SWIVEL SOCKET. THE TWO BOLTS RIGHT BEHIND THE BALANCER CAN BE REMOVED WITH A SOCKET AND RACHET OF PROPER SIZE. THERE IS PLENTY OF ROOM TO DROP THE PAN AND TO REMOVE THE OLD GASKET. YOU MUST LOWER THE CENTER LINK, YOU CAN REMOVE IT FROM THE ARMS OR REMOVE THE ARMS FROM THE STEERING BOX AND FRAME. NOT REALLY A HARD JOB. MABYE IF YOU HAD SOME REALLY FLATTENED OUT MOTOR MOUNTS THE ENGINE MAY BE TOO CLOSE TO THE FRAME AND MAKE IT HARD TO GET THE FRONT TWO BOLTS OUT. DONE THIS JOB PLENTY OF TIMES ON B ANB C BODIES. CANT GUARANTEE ON SMALL BLOCKS. THE CRAPPIEST PART IS CLEANING THE OLD GASKET OFF. GLUE THE GASKET TO THE PAN PUT SOME RTV ON SPOTS BY THE TIMING COVER AND REAR MAIN RETAINER AND BOLT IT ON.
Joined: Thu Jul 06 2006, 12:51AM
Location: california
Posts: 143
I went and had a burst of energy so i got under and started seeing what was involved with this. Well i ended up removing the center link from the pitman and idler arm and the whole piece just moved way outta the way. I am going to be able to get the pan off without too much headache seeing as most all of the bolts are within sockets reach.
But...now i have all of the steering on my mind. I may go ahead and replace all of the tie rod ends, bushings etc down there since the car is up and I am addressing all these other things.
Any leads on where i can get a rebuild kit for the steering components?? I would like to replace the ball joint in the Pitman arm (very sticky-Or does it make much of a difference if left alone?), the tie rod ends (boots are split and worn), as well as the idler arm bushing, and sway bar bushings??
Will i have to piece together these parts...if so who's got the best prices etc??
Thanks for the again i needed the boost to get this done! <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Sun Aug 13 2006, 10:56PM ]</span>