Joined: Wed Oct 14 2009, 07:20PM
Location: Florida
Posts: 151
Wow...thanks for all the advice/pics etc.! I can't wait to feel the difference:) What is the "part throttle" kickdown valve body anyways? How is it different from what I have and how would it drive different if it had one? <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Tue Jul 13 2010, 11:47PM ]</span>
Joined: Thu May 01 2008, 11:15AM
Location: Chicago,IL
Posts: 2868
yup, it allows you to only give it 2/3 throttle or so and get the kick down into 2nd to pass, you don't have to mat it to pass. It makes passes less of an event...depending on your style though that might be a bad thing
Joined: Mon Feb 18 2008, 11:08PM
Location: Tewantin, Queensland, Australia
Posts: 405
Is the return spring on the kick-down linkage a necessity? Will not using hurt anything? I don't use one on mine because i enjoy the tyre chirpping gear shifts.
Joined: Thu Jul 08 2010, 10:24PM
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
Posts: 415
Krautmaster wrote ... Easy way: 1) pull vertical rod off bell crank 2) put the 3/16" drill bit through all three holes (one in the bracket, two in the bell crank - see pic 2) 3) pulling the vertical rod all the way UP (see pic 2) turn the end counter clockwise (ccw) to lengthen it - you will have to turn it almost all the way to the end-make it a bit longer than it needs to be to line up with the ball on the bell crank. 4) remove drill bit, reattach vertical rod.
Question? You say to pull the vertical rod all the way up. Manual talks about having it positioned against the stop on the tranny case. Is your method of pulling the rod up put it in the same position as the manual says? Certainly easier than getting under the car to set it before making the adjustment.
Joined: Wed Dec 21 2005, 07:34AM
Location: indiana
Posts: 791
Krautmaster wrote ...
I know this is an old thread, but it's still useful info, so it deserves to come back up again. One thing I'd mention that I see in this pic - the throttle cable attachment on the bracket has the cable somewhat misaligned and the cable will rub the ferrule at the end of the cable sheath. Cables & sheath & cable attachment on the carb should be as straight a line as possible. See how the bracket heads uphill slightly where the cable clamp is?
This one isn't bad, but it's something I wanted to mention since we're discussing this area of the car. Misalignment can shorten cable life.
I installed the Bouchillon Performance kit on my Fury & it seems I have some adjustments to do because I am currently unhappy with the results. I was going to post some trany questions regarding shift points but I think the answer is within the line pressure. My car shifts to quickly, I'm in 3rd gear by 15 mph... I hope that's the only problem.... I'll let you know what happens after I make the adjustments...