Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 01:49PM
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 421
Alright guys...who's running what?
Currently running a 19x27.5" size 2 core Modine from a '78 NY'r.
Using dual electrics these things move a tonne of air, iirc they had a 2800 cfm rating when I bought em.
180 deg hi flow stat.
It's fine for short jaunts and at the track. But enough is enough driving highway at 3500 rpm this thing just starts to creep and when its 90+ like the other weekend 220 comes pretty fast.
So...local guy says he can build me a 3 core high density same size etc, for 400 bucks, brass and copper rad.
I can get a pretty killer deal on a 19x28 alum 2 core for 175 and shipping.
Everyone I talk too has a different opinion. Local guy says aluminum are junk, yet every drag racer I've seen has gone to aluminum.
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
Sean
Didn't we talk about this a couple of weeks ago? The draggers go with the aluminum because they are lighter. But they have a lower transfer rate then the Brass and Copper.
If you recall, I mentioned that to you and stitcherBob confirmed it with the appropriate info.
Do what I did. . . Get the unit recored for the $400 with the extra tubing. . . I went from a 2 row to about a 3 1/2 row equivelent for the same money, so he's right on the price mark. That's for my 5.2 Magnum. . .
Chances are that rad you are using is partially clogged. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Thu Jun 08 2006, 01:44PM ]</span>
Joined: Sat Mar 04 2006, 01:49AM
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 154
Stock radiator, stock fan, shroud 180* thermo., oil and trans coolers. Runs fine in 115* Phoenix weather. we'll see when I fix the A/C. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Sun Jun 18 2006, 01:26AM ]</span>
i took my 3 row radiator to the local shop today to have him build me a 4 row unit to cool my stroker w/ac a little better.with my 3.73 gears 70mph is 3150 rpm.the hour long drive to the track builds heat quickly at that rpm.i was about 205 last week and it was only 85 degrees outside.a/c was off also.the price quoted was $395.brass and copper are going up on a weekly basis so don't wait to long.aluminun radiators have a place but when i factored in making mounting brackets and making/modifying a fan shroud i chose to go with the copper/brass route. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Thu Jun 08 2006, 06:21PM ]</span>
Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
OEM's have gone to aluminum and plastic for weight savings(gas mileage) and they are cheaper to make. They use plastic tanks with rubber o-ring style gaskets that the aluminum is crimped around. The race style aluminum rads are tig welded together. Very un-repairable when you have damage from street use. The repairs to the core are particularly unsightly, usually tubes have to be cut off and closed because the metal is so thin. Brass & copper rads can be soldered, re-cored, and resist corrosion and electryolosis better than aluminum. If I was on the side of the road with a stone hole in my street car's rad, I wouldn't want to carry around a tig welder to fix it!
I can get another $169 aluminum radiator over-nighted to me anywhere in the US from Summit Racing... if I HAD to...
I went to the AL rad in my Valiant as part of a weight-reduction plan. She's my autoX car, so weight matters - somewhat. I found that the 22" copper/brass 2-row Auto Zone rad only weighed a little more than the 22" AL rad I replaced it with 'cause the new c/b rads are T-H-I-N. I've since changed the rad again to a 27" AL for no weight savings, but I need the extra capacity now that the A/C will be operational again.
Since I don't really care about saving 5# off the nose of my big block Fury, I'll go back with a copper/brass radiator if/when I need to replace the 39 year old unit in the car now. If a recore is just stupid money, I'll investigate a swap to an AL unit, but not at the expense of losing the shroud. It's just too important down here in TX (99-100 all this week, thank you). I will add that my car came from the factory with a 22" radiator to cool my 440, so it obviously doesn't take TOO much radiator to do the job if everything is up to snuff.
Run a 180 or higher t-stat, USE A SHROUD, make sure all the seals under the hood are in place (cowl seal, rad support seal, etc), use at least a 16psi rad cap, and run the least amount of antifreeze you can and keep things from corroding.
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
Ugh This is going nowhere
The bottom line is, and now you have a few opinions, the brass and Copper have better cooling properties. Aluminum works. . .Yes I agree. But in the OEM case, car manufacturers use them because they are cheaper, and lighter.
The Rad Shop told you, my rad guy told me, the same thing. Brass is better. I dunno Dana, that's pretty convincing to me. . .
Now I ask you. Why do you think there is such a hugh price difference? $169 vs. $400, and that is a current price. Which one would you put your expensive engine on?
Not only that, counting the votes, Brass wins. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Thu Jun 08 2006, 09:44PM ]</span>