Joined: Sat Mar 25 2006, 07:31PM
Location: Nebo, NC
Posts: 86
John,
It's been a while since I last did this on a C-body (thank the Lord), but here is what I remember:
Get the car up on ramps and chock the rear wheels. Disconnect the radiator hoses, power steering hoses, fuel line (chassis-to-pump), trans cooler lines and battery cables. Remove the fan shroud (or at least take it loose and let it hang on the fan). Make your fingers real small so you can get a wrench up in there to unscrew the engine mount bolts (not easy, as I recall).
If you have an engine hoist and a place to use it, do so. If you don't, you can do it the hillbilly way (as I usually have to) and contour one end of a pressure-treated 4"x4" to form-fit under and around the harmonic balancer. Cut the 4x4 to a length of around 12" to 14" (this may vary with the situation). Place a floor jack beneath the car, place the 4x4 on top of the jack and beneath the balancer, and CHOCK THE WHEELS OF THE JACK so it can't roll. Be mindful of how the jack may shift front-to-back and cause a bind as you raise the engine with it. It may take a couple of tries, but you'll get the hang of it. I have never messed up a crank or a balancer doing it this way, but there is always a first time. Reverse procedure for reassembly and don't forget to put the fluids back in.
Obviously, never do this job out of earshot of somebody else. I sweat bullets every time I do it, and you should, too. Never dropped an engine on my fingers, though (knock wood).
Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
It's been a loooong time since I did it, but I thought you could use fins' 4X4 trick under an exhaust manifold and do one side at a time without draining any fluids. But like I said, it's been about 19 years since I had to fix 'em on my 440 Imperial (long gone )
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
Off topic but should bring a smile to your face. After reading your post I looked in the old log book I kept in my Fury and found this:
15 Mar 74 @ 63,879 miles
- replace brake shoes front and rear - repack front wheel bearings - plugs, points, condenser and air filter - adjust timing and carb - replace motor mounts - replace RHS rocker gasket
Parts and labour - $171.78
So .. I guess that's why I've never changed motor mounts myself.
What's sad is the other day a shop quoted my wife $2,400 to replace the head gaskets on her V6 Taurus. No we didn't go for that! <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Sun Apr 23 2006, 12:17AM ]</span>
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 12:14PM
Location: Rochester IN
Posts: 152
I just put motor mounts on the New Yorker. I unbolted the mount from the block, then jacked up the motor, then got the mount off the frame. Reverse order to put back together. Took about 1.5 hr with the kids & dogs under foot.
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
Quote "BUT YOU'RE GONNA GET GREEEASSSYYYYYYYY......... "
So darn true, even the Taurus head gaskets shouldn't cost more than that. What burns my buns are the ridiculus shop rates some of these guys charge compared to other industries. Over near my old office there is a computer repair shop that does outstanding work with a $35 bench rate. Two doors down is a little automotive service shop that does really crappy work with a $75 bench rate. Whats worse I suppose is they are both really busy. Makes you wonder ...
Joined: Wed Oct 12 2005, 12:21PM
Location: Jersey, the only state that doesn't need the New...
Posts: 676
So here's my 1st update... went to rockauto.com looked up the car and the mounts... and they're $2.01 and thats not a typo.... How come so cheap or is it not the right thing... I bought both either way.