Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
The top appears to be shrunk. Take a straightedge or yardstick and lay it against the top seam over the door window. You will see the top has shrunk making the straight seams into an "hourglass shape" (as viewed from above). Unfortunately there is no fix other than a new top. But , as I said earlier, a lot of tops are patterned off of shrunk ones and for some reason, are never straightened out before cutting. When I hand make a top, I move the seams out a little ( think "reverse hourglass") so when the inevitable happens, it will shrink back to straight. The problem is most tops are heat-sealed after sewing these seams. We trim shops can't duplicate this ( yet! ), so hand tailored tops will have a top stitch that shows and will wear out with anything but occasional use.......
PS- You can make your own cables! Find some similar cable and silver solder (after crimping) ends on that match (I've used heavy duty solder ring terminals) or open up the original ends and re-use them. New cables are also usually available from better top companies.
I would say shrunk top and stretched cables. The gap sudggests a shrubk top, but a shrunk top would put more tension on the cables I think. My new cables have no slack on them at all when the top is down and clamped.
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
The $64K question is how long should the new cables be?? If you are not too picky about correctness, why not raise the top to release the tension and then move the rear cable mounting screw forward an inch or so? Just don't get it too tight or it will either break the cable or tear the edge of the top.
This might just be a case of "If it ain't broke (bad), don't fix it"
I don't think I can move the rear cable mounting screw back without drilling new holes. Like you also said, how do I know what size the cable SHOULD be? Maybe I should just simply release the cable and then pull back on it to see if I can make the edge come down a bit. It might also just come down to that "if it ain't broke" thing as well. For one, the car is garage kept. Second, I have driven it in the rain before and never got wet. Once I got caught in a summer time deluge... the kind of storm that basically makes seeing anything futile, even with the wipers on high. I still remained dry. Oh, well... I may try experimenting tomorrow...
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
Could be looked upon as cheating, but why not take it to an expert top installer and see what they suggest? A pro should be able to tell you whats happening after a 30 second look.
Tops are evil things to install and line up, so if you are basically a top down driver, I think I'd leave it alone.
Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
The top cables should be long enough to reach both mounting points and be snug against the top rail over the window when the frame is up and locked. There are cars out there that use a spring loaded end on one end and this keeps the top tight. But all the cable does is hold the flap down as if it were snapped or glued to the top frame. It won't pull a shrunken top down. To make a cable, fasten one end and string the cable where it has to go in the top flap. Pull it towards the other mounting point until snug and mark it to put on the other end. A lot of professional trimmers leave this cable (and the thin bars that sometimes screw the anti-balloon sleeves to the bows) out! The restorers are the ones to talk to....the trim shops just bang 'em out to make a profit.
Joined: Sun Feb 05 2006, 11:51PM
Location: Pa
Posts: 3064
ps- on some cars where the top is flat and even with the framework, you can try adding a black, marine-quality velcro strip to the top flap and to the frame with contact adhesive and just stick the top down - on a hot day, with the sun beating down on the top, you can gain a little bit to fit better over the windows. And it will release itself when the top goes down.
I will try to see if I can pull the cable to ses if the fit is any better. However, I am getting the feeling that the top has indeed shrunk. I am going to consider getting a new top, at least someday, but I would like to know where I can purchase a new top that fits correctly and doesn't shrink. Anyone know how much this might cost?
On another note, I want to refer back to this photo:
This is the picture I took of the inside of the top showing the two different sizes of the L-brackets holding the bows. Note the the rear bow is about an inch higher than the front bow because of the taller L-bracket. Can anyone else confirm that there are different size brackets on their cars? I also want to make sure they are in the right place or if the brackets should be switched between the front and rear bows. Anyone with a '66-'68 C-body convertible should be able to confirm this easily. Pics might be helpful as well.