Joined: Fri Oct 07 2005, 12:03PM
Location: Central Ky.
Posts: 1575
Shoot, you're probably right....most likely have to pull the rotor too ( keep forgetting that ). but it's not that much with the pin-type calipers so I'd still go that was just to avoid the slignment issue.
The other trick to getting maximum drop from the suspension is to remove the upper rebound bumper from the upper control arm. Trust me this works! I still don't think it'll give enough to get the shocks in though. It does help tremendously to get the t-bars in & out.
i had to show my exhaust guyt he easy way toget the headers in on mine bydoing just that, remove the t-bars. After he had fought with them trying to move then engine around to get the upper sections in. Just pull the rebound bumpers, support the chassis, unload the t-bars & slide them back & presto! plenty of room to get the headers in & out.
I think I remember the bars you're talking about, Circle Trakc stuff right?
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 12:39AM
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 516
Clair, I'd be interested in the T-bar info and prices. I've been thinking about upgrading to larger bars, but the only way to do that is to find something in the boneyard, which is obviously getting hard to do.
Butch, When it comes to alignments, I'm kind of spoiled... I've been doing my own for the last few years, and it's pretty easy for me. I'd rather do that than the rotor/caliper boogie. I'll have to keep that in mind for the shock job - might just pull the UCA's and be done with it.
Moe, Like Butch said, these bars are no where near stock parts, closer to stock CAR, as in Busch Grand National parts. They're also untested at this point, heck, we don't even have all the parts to install in a car yet. So, depending on the size bars you need/want, a stock source is the ONLY source at the moment. Once we get our inital testing done, and it proves reliable, a world of possibilities will (hopefully) open up. Right now, there are only about 3 of us C-body types that are crazy enough to even try this as an experiment.
What size bars do you have now, and what are you hoping to achieve?
Clair, I might be interested in a beefy set of adjustable fronts. The KYBs seem to handle the rear OK, the front is were I really feel it.
I remember some talk several months ago about billet adapters for NASCAR T-Bars. One set of adapters could fit any bar. Same stuff? From what I remember, it sounded really intriguing. I am crazy enough to try them! I want this thing to be a vette killer!
Joined: Thu Nov 24 2005, 07:29PM
Location: So Cal.
Posts: 1111
I'll put bone shaker T-bars in my car. It beats riding the bike! (I think I just made myself sound old if you get the pun)
My 300 leans like a sailboat caught sideways in a windstorm anytime I turn. It's bad. It'll come > < this close to lifting the inside front wheel. I have witnesses!
I don't know about you, but when I think about the brand name Be-Cool, I think about shock absorbers. Right?
$50/ea more than I paid for my single-adjustable HAL QA-1 Stocker Stars. They even have ACTUAL Mopar PN's, although it's still one-size-fits-all, as long as you don't have a C-barge. For us, we'll just have to check out all of the extended/compressed lengths and see what comes close with the right ends. Another perk MIGHT be that the shock body is supposed to be pretty slim. The EB's I bought a while back are GM PN's, FWIW... I also can't visualize adjusting these shocks on the LCA's... but the photo seems to be a generic file photo of some sort.
Clair
PS, still no word on the SPAX app for C's, but I'll keep checking. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Tue Apr 11 2006, 03:54PM ]</span>
Nascar bars and adjustable shocks? Count me in! I once scraped the chrome off the door handles going around a sharp corner cuz it leaned over so far. Well, maybe not quite that far, but close.