Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 12:14PM
Location: Rochester IN
Posts: 152
How much would the cast crank and stock rods hurt me. I found a set of forged pistons at 10.34-1(88cc, .040 head gasket). If I use a steal gasket at .020 that would be 10.83-1, at least that's what the desk top dyno said.
Would I have to go steal at this level of performance? If so it is no big deal to pull the 67. The 67 440 is still in the car and runs when it wants to.
The 78 block is out and empty. The cast crank just needed polished. I'm going to get the block checked out before I order work done. Who wouldn't? It ran when I got it from the grave yard. Yes, I started it up.
The 78 block has main studs, and I got a windage tray, E-RPM intake, gear timing. I'm trying to decide between a E-AVS 800 or a Speed Demon 850. FI would be nice, but I cant do it this year.
Thanks for info on the heads. The 452's made more power up top (4k rpm+)over the 915's even with the higher comp (11.3-1 with the pistons listed above)
This is going to be done in steps. I want to get the bottom done right without over kill (if there is a such thing).
I would love to go wild with this, but the wife keeps saying stuff about food and the house
Joined: Mon Oct 31 2005, 12:48PM
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 1755
I did not make a suggestion as to which heads to use; I just said the debate goes on as is with the responses you have received.
So, here in the Bake most guys I know would say dump the closed chamber heads and go with the 906s, unless you are going to do serious racing. With the low octane gas today, open chamber ehads are better for street use, or that is the general thinking here in California.
I currently use lead Substitute with every tank, and have been doing so for the three years I ahve had my '70, and for the eight previous I had with Steve's New Yorker. I have a set of 906s I was going to put on the 413, but I never did do the motor.
I will eventually pull the heads (906) on my 440 and have hardened seats installed - the shop in Pismo is known for this. I am not interested in high(er) compression, but I don't want to eat my valves either.
sell all three sets of heads,sell the forged crank out of the 67,along with the 78 block and rods.take this money and put it on a down payment on the eddy's.Take that 67 block, punch it .060(should take it easily) with the67 rods,(rebuilt ,w ARP rod bolts).Now take that 78 cast crank,machine it and DO NOT skimp on the balancing.throw in a moperf cam and lifter set(cheap and proven)..484 will work great on the street.Top it off with an M1 intake and an 850 Thermoquad instead of the 850 speed demon everyone else would say to put on,now take that $500 you just saved for that demon and go pay off the eddy,s.(advantages of a good tuned thermoquad are driveability,small primary,s and it still looks stock).Ya better have some serious rubber in those wheelwells cause this combo on the cheap will put traction to the test.P.S.i love this site, I,m gonna post picks of my 69 monaco 500/340/727 w/2200 stall/3:55s/street dom.manifold w850 thermoquad C barges RULE!.Glen.
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 12:14PM
Location: Rochester IN
Posts: 152
Thanks for all the input,
I think I will leave the 67 440 alone for now, and use the empty block. I took it to the shop today, and should know by Tuesday what it needs. I had the crank done a few weeks ago, and it cleaned up nicely with just a polish.
I'm going to get the 452's redone, as the valves are in good shape. Springs, guides, seals, etc will be new. I'll save the $$$ for the Eddy's till I build a bigger motor.
My shop said the rods should hold up fine in this motor. I took them in with the block. They are going through them with a fine tooth comb(as with the block). If they are suspect in any way, I will go with after market. As soon as I get the pistons, and refresh the rods, they WILL be balanced. ARP will be put in.
The Lunati cam makes 8hp @ 5000 RPM and 27tq @ 3000 RPM over the .484. (according to my desktop dyno) I have the E-RPM intake and I have to buy a carb. So I won't save that much.
I am curious, how confident are you that the RPM intake is going to fit under the hood? I have a stock intake and Eddy Thunder AVS witth the shortest chrome air cleaner I could find ( about 2") and it is poking a hole in my hood pad! It is an aftermarket pad and a little thicker, but I am probably 1"-1.5" from hitting the hood.
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 10:29AM
Location: Metamora, MI 48455
Posts: 43
I have the Performer RPM intake on my low-deck 400 with an Eddy 750 and it clears the hood using a flat-base air cleaner and a 3" K&N filter. Granted it's a B engine vs. an RB, but just thought I'd throw in my .02
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 08:00PM
Location: Bowling Green KY/Nashville TN
Posts: 76
No matter what you build, you're gonna eventually want MORE!
Personally, I've been collecting parts on at a time for 3-1/2 years in order to build what I really want.
In the meantime, I found a '75 New Yorker with a decent 440/727 for $500, and I'm installing it in the 300 so I can tool around until the 500 stroker is done. Those old cars are out there and you can make most; if not all; of your money back by selling the unwanted roller to a derby dude.
Sound like an option for you? Of course, It does make one a little "antsy" waiting for the "good" drivetrain to be done!
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 12:14PM
Location: Rochester IN
Posts: 152
I have the RPM in the New Yorker with a carter-brock 750 and a 2" filter now. It is very tight, but it works. When the motor is in the Fury, I'm going to try and fab up a box of some kind.
I know I'll want more power someday, but the 528 is just going to have to wait. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:25AM ]</span>