Don't forget the splash shields incase they aren't still on the spindles.
Like Snotty mentioned, go ahead and rebuild the bushings on the upper A-arm cams and pull the T-Bars to replace the lower bushing, unless they have been recently replaced. With the spindle out, this isn't much more work. Also check the stut rod bushings.
Not sure about 66, but on a 69 the upper and lower arms don't need to be swapped, I have done the swap twice and used the existing arms, everything fit fine.
I agree with 73NYB also on the rotors and calipers, they are readily available and cheap. Infact, look for LOADED calipers. They will include pads and the last set I got a year ago even included the caliper pins for the same price as just what the caliper pins would have cost! I have used the 73 booster and master both times with excellent luck, got the combo for about $100.
You will be limited to 15" or larger wheels.
Expect to pay between $150-$250 for used spindles, shields and caliper bracket. While they are rather plentiful, their value is starting to grow. I know I have an extra set tucked away just in case... [ Edited Wed Feb 01 2006, 09:26PM ]
NFury8, so what is a stut rod LOL. I'm the medicated one. And you are the one stashing all the mopar parts. I have partially rebuilt the front end already. even though I have been surprised at the good condition of my suspension. I will be checking and replacing old rubber as I go. Does anyone make new components in poly. Don't worry about me rebuilding anything for a while it is too darn cold to work on the boat till spring and the meds will wear off by then. Winter is the time to collect pieces and to sell off the left overs. By the way any market on used drum brake setups, full ac units, stock valve covers and oil caps.
Joined: Fri Oct 07 2005, 12:03PM
Location: Central Ky.
Posts: 1575
Don't have to chahge upper A-Arms on a 66 for the disc swap. Same arm & like Dana said the upper BJ is the same one for a 69-73 disc car. Actually it's the same for B-body's 62-70 at least & fullsize back to at least 62 if I remember.
We did the 73 swap on a buddies 65 NY'r & used just the spindles/shields w/rebuilt calipers & pads, the 73 prop valve & a 71 cast iron Disc MC & booster. All works great.
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
Well Keentucky has returned. Frankly butch, I have missed both you and Roger. Hangin around with these kids. . . . . LOL
66 The strut rod is the shaft that runs from the lower T arm to the front. Those are those big nuts you see behind the bumper. If you are going to replace the bushings, as suggested by Scott, take off those big nuts before you disconnect them from the T arm. You'll be glad you did.
All those bushings we're talking about will cost about 40 bucks + press time. Over all, you'll be much hapier you did it. Restores the new car feel and handling
Joined: Mon Oct 31 2005, 12:48PM
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 1755
I just checked the Just Suspension site, and as I thought, they do not offer the C body parts with poly bushings. Neither does PST; I don't think anyone does. There is simply too little demand for them. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Fri Feb 03 2006, 01:36AM ]</span>