Joined: Sat Oct 22 2005, 07:55PM
Location: ILLINOIS
Posts: 63
ON MY 73 NYer I REPLACED THE ISOLATORS ON THE SUBFRAME BY REPLACING THEM WITH 73 UP B BODY ALUMINIUM ISOLATORS. THEY ARE VERY CLOSE HEIGHT WISE YOU WILL PROBABLY NEED SOME FLAT SHEET STOCK OF REASONABLE THICKNESS TO REPLACE THE FACTORY SHIMS. I ONLY REPLACED THE ONES IN THE DASH FOOT AREA (THE FOUR BIG NASTY ONES UNDER THE FRONT OF THE FLOORBOARDS) DONT BE SUPRISED IF YOU FIND SOME RUST BETWEEN THE BODY MOUNT AREA AND THE CRUDDY FACTORY SHIMS SO YOU MAY HAVE SOME ISSUES THERE. I OPENED UP THE HOLES ON THE SUBFRAME WITH A DIE GRINDER SO THE NEW ISOLATORS FIT FLUSH WITH THE SUB.FIXED THE SMALL RUST ISSUE,FOUR 7/16 BOLTS OF A PROPER LENGHT FOUR THICK WASHERS THAT ARE BIG ENOUGH TO HOLD THE SUB TO ISOLATORS AND BODY AND BOLTED IT ALL TOGETHER. AND NOW HAVE A SOLID RIDING BOAT
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
I'm almost afraid to look. . . . But that is on the list for next summer. How long did it take you? I never did them before with everything attached on the car. . . I guess it's wiser to make sure the sheet metal in in place huh?
Joined: Sat Oct 22 2005, 07:55PM
Location: ILLINOIS
Posts: 63
ID RECOMMEND HAVING AIR TOOLS AND PROBABLY A PORTA POWER WITH A DUCKBILL. YOU WILL HAVE TO CAREFULLY WORK THE BOLTS FREE THIS COULD BE A CHALLENGE DEPENDING ON CONDITION OF BOLTS OR CORROSION. BOLTS COULD BE QUITE SPINDLY FROM ALL THE MOISTURE THE RUBBER ABSORBS OVER THE YEARS. I DID ONE MOUNT AT A TIME I DID THE OUTER FIRST I TOOK OUT THE BOLT THEN BLEW AWAY THE ISOLOTOR WITH AN AIR CHISEL THEN I TOOK THE DUCKBILL PUT IT BETWEEN THE SUB AND BODY MOUNT LOADED IT ENOUGH TO FIT A SOCKET OR A PIECE OF WOOD,THEN DID THE INNER SAME THING TOOK OUT THE BOLT AND CHISELED AWAY THE CRAP RUBBER AND RUST ISOLATOR. FIXED THE RUST AND OPENED UP THE HOLES IN THE SUB,WIRE WHEELED EVERTHING AND POR-15. PUT IN THE ALUMINIUM ISOLATORS BOLTED IT UP AND REPEATED ON THE OTHER SIDE. I DID NOT DO THE ISOLTORS ON THE CORE SUPPORT OR THE ONES UNDER THE FRONT SEAT. THE CRAP PART OF THE JOB WAS EVERTHING LOOKED SUPER SOLID BUT I ENDED UP WITH A RUST HOLE THE SIZE OF NICKEL ON EACH SIDE ON THE BODY MOUNT AREA IT WAS BETWEEN THE BOLT HOLES ON EACH BODY MOUNT.LOOKED LIKE IT WAS CAUSED BY THE SHIMS THE FACTORY USES COLLECTING MOISTURE OVER THE YEARS.
I installed a set of aluminum isolator pads from firm feel on my 78 Magnum. I had no air tools so I had to slip an electric cut off wheel in there to cut a way at the old rubber. Then beat the metal insert out after it was cut 1/2 the way through. I did one side at a time. You can get to everything pretty easy if it is jacked up good and wheel off. I had alot of rot to clean out too. Since one of yall did this on a 73, I'll do it on my 73 newyorker and 70 300. These make a huge difference, especially with wider tires or even 60 series vs the Tall and Skinnies!
Joined: Sat Oct 22 2005, 07:55PM
Location: ILLINOIS
Posts: 63
THE ONLY THING BAD IS THE $100 PLUS PRICE FOR THE ALUMINUM ISOLATORS. BACK ABOUT 20 YEARS AGO YOU COULD BY CAST IRON ISOLATORS FROM DIRECT CONNECTION FOR ABOUT $30. MOPAR ACTION IN THE LATE 80S HAD A FULL ARTICLE ABOUT USING THE CAST IRON ISOLATORS IN 73 UP B BODYS. I WOULD RECOMMEND TO ANYBODY WITH RUBBER SUBFRAME C OR B BODY TO GET RID OF THOSE RUST AND RUBBER ISOLATORS ASAP. MY NYer HAS SOLID FLOORS AND SUBFRAME SO I WAS QUITE BENT AT THE SIGHT OF A RUST HOLE THE SIZE OF A NICKEL BETWEEN BOTH SUBFRAME BODY MOUNTING HOLES. ALL CAUSED BY THE CRUDDY SHIMS AND RUBBER HOLDING MOISTURE FOR 30 PLUS YEARS. SO ALL YOU HULKAMANICAS OUT THERE KICK THOSE RUBBER SUBFRAME BUSHINGS ASSES.