I am not trying to knock them either, but even SSBC can't say that their kit is BETTER than the 73 front discs. And as far as new parts go, the only part that is really new is the caliper mounting bracket. You still use an old spindle in both applications, and should get new calipers, rotors and bearings either way. You can try to argue that the SSBC uses a 4 piston design, but I would have to see numbers comparing stopping distances, and SSBC doesn't have that. I do prefer to keep to Mopar when I can, and the bigger rotor might cancel out the 4 piston advantage.
AS Tpuig stated, either one will be a HUGE difference! It would be an awesome tech article if someone switched from a 73 disc to one of the after markets!
Well, perhaps the "parade use" tidbit was a bit harsh... but here's my thinking. Since I don't know what the stock size of the 73 C-body caliper is, let's ignore calipers for a moment, or at least ASSume that they SSBC and C-body calipers are equal. The rotor is what's ultimately doing the braking, by converting the kinetic energy of a 4000# C-barge at 120mph in to heat energy through friction. Here's the specs on the SSBC rotor from their site:
By comparison the typical A-body Kelsey-Hayes rotor is about 11"x0.9", and they're prone to warping under A-body use. The late A-body rotors are 10.875"x1", and are less prone to warping under normal use. The 73 C-body rotor is 11.75"x1.25".
(FWIW, the SSBC rotor above is exactly the same as the one they sell for A-bodies, with the exception of adding the 5x4" bolt pattern for the small cars. Same is true for the calipers...)
In this situation, you can pretty much relate a rotor's capacity to absorb heat with the rotor's mass, since it takes a given amount of energy to heat a given amount of iron X degrees. For cast iron rotors, mass=>weight, and it's pretty clear that the SSBC rotor is probably not FUNCTIONALLY any more massive than either of the A-body rotors, and is significantly less massive than the 73 C-body rotor. What this means is that you can put a lot more energy in to the more massive rotor before you raise its temperature to the point that the pads start to cook or the brake fluid starts to boil.
I know how I'm prone to drive my cars, and I would never put an A-body rotor on a car that weighs 1/3 more. There are just too many times around here that I need to USE my brakes, and I just don't think the SSBC (or any similar-sized parts) would keep me out of the car in front of me. Is the SSBC better than the OEM drums? Probably. Is it better than the OEM 73 C-body system? IMHO, no. In fact, I think you could say that ANY of the 69+ disk brake systems are better than the SSBC on a C-body.
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 04:15PM
Location: North Bergen, NJ
Posts: 24
I have used the SSBC kit before, and as I said, I was not impressed. Felt like braking in any other really old full sized car I had ever driven. I simply was not impressed. It was an improvement over drum brakes, and that's just about all you can say about that.
The difference between a 13 inch rotor kit using Porsche calipers, and an 11 inch rotor kit using basic 4 piston calipers is like night and day.
Thanks everyone for the replys, This really helps. I look forward to doing up some brakes on my 300. Thanks for the pics NFURY8. The stuff you do to your Cbody is exactly what I have in mind.
Rickenbacker wrote ... I have used the SSBC kit before, and as I said, I was not impressed. Felt like braking in any other really old full sized car I had ever driven. I simply was not impressed. It was an improvement over drum brakes, and that's just about all you can say about that.
Do you think you can contridict yourself any more? As for everyone else, what the heck do you want? To stop 300 feet before you need to apply the brake? You people are so anal about things and narrow minded that you knock something without even knowing anything about it! You won't use the SSBC because of it's small rotors. Have you tried driving a car with the set up?? I have no problem with my SSBC set up on all 4's, hell of alot better than the 11x3 drums I had. I'd recomend it to anybody that's looking to upgrade. Oh, and it's tons better putting on CLEAN, NEW, Guarenteed parts that I know are safe. Go ahead and use your junkyard junk for brakeupgrade. Just make sure you stay away from me when your brakes take a dump!.
Normally I don't post anymore on either the Old Board or here but I have to weigh in on this subject as it directly relates to how the Old Board handled a similar question on Disc Break conversions. First off I use the SSBC kit on my 66/300. At the time it was about the only option short of the 73 swap available for the "bolt and go" crowd. To me the 73 swap is too "iffy" as to utilizing "used/old "parts for the most important safty feature for a C Body. Granted re-conditioning and after market parts are available but to me it is just too much work to swap out to the 73 setup. Personal choice always applies when discussing these type of subjects, but when the few opions border total redundency, then it is time to not ask these types of questions and just go with what ever one chooses. The SSBC kit is an excellent swap for those wishing to use the 14" Magnum wheels. This was the case with me. With my brothers 66/300, he also wanted to retain the 14" deep dish wheels and spinner hub caps. He has front and rear discs and let me tell you...it will stop on a dime and give you nine cents change. To me 17" wheels is over kill on these big cars but then again it is a matter of personal choice. In the future, why not quit asking these types of questions because it only confuses what we all are attempting to accomplish. Safe stopping of our C's at an affordable price with what is readily available without compromising the look and ride abilities.