Hi everyone, Thought I'd ask an opinion of what my engine is going to put out. Once the build is done in a few weeks i will have it on an engine dyno to see what it does. Here are the specs: 74' 440 block .030" over, 0 decked Speed pro "6 pack" forged pistons l2355f (thinking around 9.5:1 comp with 84cc cambers) New steel i beam rods with arp bolts Standard steel crank internal balance .010" undersize Lunati voodoo 60302 hydraulic flat tappet cam (installed straight up) Lunati roller timing chain Mopar performance assembled p5153524 aluminum heads Full roller rockers stock ratio Mopar performance aluminum low rise dual plane intake (copy of 69' 440hp intake) Speed demon carburetor #1904 750cfm Standard electronic ignition 1971 C body "HP" exhaust manifolds Stock HP dual snorkel air breather. 93 octane (pump gas) 440 source aluminum water pump and housing
I know the low rise intake and HP manifolds will be a bottleneck, but what HP/TQ numbers should i expect? Also would its weight with the aluminum parts be close to a stock all iron 318? Thanks!! -Marc
Joined: Fri Mar 13 2009, 11:21AM
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 713
I'll guess 440 hp and 520 torque... I agree the intake and exhaust manifolds are going to hold it back. Are you going to have the exhaust manifolds extrude-honed or run them stock?
If you think the exhaust manifolds are going to hold you back...(much)...Think again. There is a hp difference that's for sure,but Mopars have some of the best flowing manifolds....period. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/550hp.html One thing i would do is bring your dist. to a reputable speed shop or engine builder and have it set up on a machine such as a Sunnen machine. I don't know what kind of set up you are running but it said "standard mopar electronic" in your description. If it's just an old dist. with worn bushings,etc, and has not even a performance curve you are going to be disappointed in the results. Everything has to be up to par along with a good curve built into the dist. For most big blocks it would be between 10-17 degrees initial and 36-38 degrees total. Anything over the 38 degrees and the power drops like a stone and the killer rattles usually set in. If you are using a stock ECU,these things can retard the timing by as much as 8 degrees above 4,000 rpm. The ignition is where it can make or break you. Sounds like you have a good setup and will be very streetable. My guess is right at 66 monaco 500 guessed. 440 and 500+.
If you think the exhaust manifolds are going to hold you back...(much)...Think again. There is a hp difference that's for sure,but Mopars have some of the best flowing manifolds....period. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/550hp.html One thing i would do is bring your dist. to a reputable speed shop or engine builder and have it set up on a machine such as a Sunnen machine. I don't know what kind of set up you are running but it said "standard mopar electronic" in your description. If it's just an old dist. with worn bushings,etc, and has not even a performance curve you are going to be disappointed in the results. Everything has to be up to par along with a good curve built into the dist. For most big blocks it would be between 10-17 degrees initial and 36-38 degrees total. Anything over the 38 degrees and the power drops like a stone and the killer rattles usually set in. If you are using a stock ECU,these things can retard the timing by as much as 8 degrees above 4,000 rpm. The ignition is where it can make or break you. Sounds like you have a good setup and will be very streetable. My guess is right at 66 monaco 500 guessed. 440 and 500+.
Glen
Thanks for the reply, It is a brand new proform distributor, i bought a whole electronic ignition kit with the orange control unit. My engine builder did mention he was going to go through the dist as far as setting the curve. Seems like a very knowledgeable guy.