Joined: Wed Dec 27 2006, 09:13PM
Location: NJ
Posts: 19
Some progress:
Napa has part # 5473604, looks like a restored Bendix unit. It looks like the lower unit from your picture, jazzandmoparguy. A couple other smaller vendors look like they are offering the same part.
Summit Racing has # SSB A28151, booster & master for A & C body. It looks much smaller then the Napa unit.
Napa say it'll take 10 days to get the part, but at least I can physically take it back to the store if it's defective. Hopefully it will play nice with the master cylinder.
Here's what SSBC initially recommended: "You can check the line pressures by purchasing or borrowing a Brake Pressure Gauge and measure the line pressures for your vehicle at each brake caliper one at a time by removing the bleeder screw and installing the pressure gauge and reading the pressure on a “Normal” brake application. Please avoid from grabbing the steering wheel and bearing down on the brake pedal.
Optimal Front brake pressure will range from 1100 PSI –to- 1200 PSI Optimal Rear brake pressure will range from 700 PSI –to- 800 PSI "
I sent them a second email a while back asking them what booster they recommended and never heard back.
Joined: Wed Dec 27 2006, 09:13PM
Location: NJ
Posts: 19
Finally got the proper booster into the car. Looked a lot of places, Napa, Summit Racing, etc, finally ended up buying a used core from Murray Park at http://www.cbodies.com, part # 54-73604. I then sent the booster to Cardone in Texas to be remanufactured. Booster went into the car today and results seem way better then with the original. I haven't tried it on the highway yet but stopping is better from at least 40 miles an hour.
Long story short, booster # 54-73604 was a direct swap with good results.
Joined: Sun Jan 07 2007, 07:37PM
Location: London,Ontario
Posts: 166
I agree with BigBlockMopar 100%. Too many people hang the wrong hardware for the changes they make when it comes to brakes. Pedal ratio's seem to be one of the most neglected considerations when changing from manual to power or vise versa. Another recent innovation known as a residual valve is seldom considered especially if the rears are drum style. Half the pedal stroke can be used up just getting the shoes to reach the drum surface. Recently I read an article where a gentleman reduced his rear piston size from 1 inch to 7/8 for more travel with less fluid and reduced his master cylinder bore to 7/8 as well. Afterwards he stated that he thought he had power assist. He had the pedal arm lengthened 1 1/2 inches to achieve the right pedal ratio and was amazed at the ease and stopping power he had. Could actually "toe" the pedal and the car started stopping. Braking systems take a bit of thought but there are resources out there that benefit us all.