I'm sure there are a ton of engine build posts on here, I was just wondering if you fellow mopar fans could toss me a bone and give me some idea of what I can throw under the hood of mu 67 New Yorker Coupe (sorry I don't have picture, and yes I know how special this car is...) Any how, I have a 440 in it (needs a rebuild), I love the big block and gas mileage isn't an issue. I have 7.2 litres under the hood... there's not too many ways to stop that from eating gas. Its not gonna be an a daily driver vehicle but it will see a lot of driving when its nice out. I was wondering if I should keep the 440 block and build that or is better to use the 400 block and stroke it? I'm looking for power, a lot of it, not so much that driving it around town is going to be difficult. I am also going for the "sleeper" look. Big engine, big brakes, big power, sleek normal appearing package. I'm willing to do a complete engine overhaul as long as I get a good amount of power. I don't want to be shredding tires everywhere I go but big power is wanted, as long as were not pushing 650+ at the crank... something that flexes its american muscle but isn't overkill. Any suggestions or forum builds to check out? Thanks guys.
My advice is not to go much past 500 hp if on a budget, the auto n diff wont really need too much attention at that power level
More cubes = less cam and more street manners, given that stroker kits generally cost about the same there is no real reason not to go a 500+ cube engine with a mildish cam
Apart from rod to stroke ratios, variations in rotating mass, exhaust fitment and carb height, there really would be little point in doing a low deck (383/400) stroker for the purposes you have stated, provided your block is ok
Yeah the block should be fine, its been in dry heated storage for a while, may have some oxidation from being exposed but if I'm boring and stroking it anyhow because I totally want the bigger block. I mean I've been working and going to school and putting away what I can and I'm going to do the car up right, want to get it all done at once, and the interior is 95% clean, everything else is clean, rust free etc etc. So yeah I'm not on too much of a budget I'm willing to put 5k upwards of 8k for a really really good build. If it will start everyday and run and make great power I feel its worth the investment. I've found that things that cost more tend to be more reliable, better quality and work perfectly.
someone on another forum stated this about the 915 casting heads as well "If you have the desirable 1967-only 915 casting heads, I would consider getting those rebuilt. Closed chamber heads are better; Chrysler switched to the 906 open-chamber heads for lower emissions, not more power. The 915s also have better flowing ports like the 906s, rather than the poor flowing ports of the older 516s. Your heads might have 1.6" exhaust valves installed, not the 1.74" valves used in high performance 1967 engines. If you so choose, the machine shop can open them up for the larger valves." Does anyone else have more information on that?
The New Yorker was "The Flag Ship" of The Chrysler Division and in the 60's went from the 413 to your 440 ( it was "owner-ship Bragging Rights" even though they knew their 383 was the better of the two when it came to competition ). Both 440/ 413 engines use the same Crank Shaft - Rods and Intake Manifolds. The other parts are really from The 383 Engines ( open a MoPar Parts Book and edit the numbers ).
**** With the same year - for - year Exhaust Manifolds - Heads and Cam Shaft - the 383 will spin quicker to its higher RPM's and the complete package even weights less. ****
The comment from Alan about using The MoPar 400 ( 1972 - 1978 ) is very valid. As a learning start look at its Torque at RPM's and compare this to your 440 of 1967 vs its weight ( power to weight ratio ). As you do this remember the 400 is rated differently than a 1967 440 or a 413, so look at a equal year 440 vs 400 ( If one has a 413 it is the same story ). As you do this don't forget the 400 spins quicker and higher.
Joined: Sat Aug 19 2006, 05:03PM
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2919
67NY2DR: The text you quoted about the 915 heads looks like something I may have written. What more do you want to know about the 915 heads? Research "quench" to find out about the benefits of closed-chambered heads. You need to have the block decked at the machine shop to obtain the benefits of quench. Note that the 915 heads don't have hardened exhaust valve seats. When you have them freshened-up at the machine shop, have hardened exhaust valve seats installed. Also have the chambers CC'ed (or measure it yourself) so you know the exact volume of them for compression ratio calculations.
I have a 451 stroker and I think it's great, but given that you already have a 440, I would overhaul that. If it's what you want and your budget allows, get an aftermarket stroker crank and sell your old one to someone else who's building a low-deck stroker.
Don't go too crazy with the cam. You want to start building torque at low RPM to get the car moving. Check out the Comp XE268H (I have this in my 451) or the comparable Lunati Voodoo cam. Or if your budget is higher, look into a mild roller cam.
Pay attention to your compression ratio so the engine can live happily on pump gas. This is likely to be an issue when stroking, using closed chambered heads, building a quench engine and keeping the cam mild. Don't trust the CR advertised by the piston manufacturer because they make a lot of assumptions. I wound up using dished pistons to keep CR reasonable.
If you have HP exhaust manifolds, you may stick with those, especially if on a budget. Otherwise, Hedman shorties, Schumacher tri-Y and TTI headers will fit. There are message threads here on the Dock about installing them. use the search tool.
Don't cheap out with parts. I initially used offshore-manufactured rockers, water pump and distributor drive. It was a frustrating and expensive mistake, and none of these parts are still installed on my engine today.
Yeah I was just double checking that the 440 was a good block to start off with. What exactly is quench though? and is it only achieved with closed chamber heads? If so what are the advantages of using this style of valve intake opposed to others. Like I said I'm willing to spend good money on it, it means a lot to me and I really want it to look great, be drive able, but also have some gnarlyness under the hood, I've looked at exhaust kits and find they are a few more then I when I had checked in the past. I really like the authentic hot rod style of upgrading, like the idea of using the 915 heads, header cutouts or dumpers. I mean most of the money I have is going into the engine because everything else is pretty much okay... almost no rust at all, leather top is still good, motor is in decent shape, trans was alright for the most part, it just has been sitting. I'm not against putting 500+ cubes under the hood there is plenty of space. I want to go fast but still be able to just drive around. And from what it seems I want a big ci block with a milder cam? I was willing to put roller rockers and stuff in there with hydraulic lifters and the whole shibang because all the money I have is really gonna go towards the drivetrain. Nothing else needs very little work, almost none at all.
Joined: Fri Aug 05 2011, 08:06PM
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 132
+1 set of ally heads if your 915's are missing
quench is essentially about controlling the flame front as the petrol ignites, the open chamber heads are less efficient at burning fuel - less power, less fuel economy (at 500+ ci LOL)
I drove a couple cars near that power range, I drove a str8 392 challenger my ex's dad owned and let me drive that was fun as hell. I've driven a few built STI's One of them was 400+ and I have BEEN IN a supercharged drag slicked GTO Judge... that wasn't too street legal but he took me around the block and holy Yeep that was crazy... but yeah all my friends are gear heads. I drove a 72 cutlass with a muncie rock crusher. I don't know if I've driven a 500hp plus but I've gotten near there. plus I mean the car doesn't weigh a whole lot for its size 3700ish, but it has a long drive shaft which would cause some power loss correct? Holy Yeep those caps girdles were soo nice btw... I mean 500+ hp would really be pushing my limit of how much power I would want but that depends on what Ill get from my WHP as well.
Red n blue lights quickly spoil fun too....