Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 01:49PM
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 421
Got the rad drained, trans lines plugged and pulled out. New 3 core is on order.
This weekend I plan too finish taking off the topend, intake, carb, valve covers, rockers etc.
My front seal is leaking like a sieve, so wp and timing chain cover has to come off, and well since I have it that far, I'm gonna take Tony's advice and I'm gonna slide a new bumpstick in the lil 440.
Right now just debating on goin with the good ol MP 557 or getting a custom ground unit done by Dwayne on Moparts. I really don't want to touch the heads just yet, so gonna try and keep it under .600 lift with a seat pressure the Edelbrock springs can handle.
And that brings up another question, throw another truroller back in, or do I step up to something like the Pete Jackson gear drive setup...hmmm....
Once its back together everything is getting sprayed blue, no more shiny aluminum for me . Also plan on redoin my aircleaner with this stuff...
I just picked these off of Ebay... I've wanted a set since I saw em for the first time when I was 15, lol figured it was time hehe...
Car's getting new shoe's over the winter aswell, 275/60/15 M/T Drag Radials will be goin on and I will officially be just a one tire guy, no more changing to slicks at the track for me, getting too old for that Yeep.
And last but not least its converter time, still stuck on PTC, Dynamic or TA. Its gonna go 4200-4500 and gonna make my heap leave like its supposed to and actually slip less than 14% like my current one is now !whip Price wise, PTC has em all beat, the guys on Moparts really dig em, but Rogers experience with his, has got me a little gunshy.
Whew, that being said this Yeep better mph 115+ or it might be time to awww hell who am I kidding, might have to chrome it !tape
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 05:02PM
Location: ALLEN PARK, MI.
Posts: 2007
AHHHHH! Now.....THIS.......is what I like to hear! !thumb EVERYTHING you said sounds great! Hey, your taking a tip from the Tonster and getting the "BLUE" anodized covers, where-as I have the RED Moroso's!
Consider this Dana. Do you think it is time for a ROLLER CAM now while going thru the hassles? I do not remember your piston type. Will you have adiquite valve to piston clearences with a higher lift cam? The boys at MM sold me OUT of getting a gear drive! They said it was a WASTE of money in THEIR opinion!
I would get the TA converter! Their reputation still stands......and mine is going strong! By the way.....now is the time for the aluminum water pump AND housing as I bugged you to get! More weight off the nose! !thumb The racing is on again! !banana !banana Tony P.
Joined: Mon Jan 16 2006, 02:52AM
Location: Vantaa,Finland
Posts: 379
I think the MP .557 cam is a good grind, Dwayne propably can figure otu an even better one, but you better check those Edelbrock springs that they have enough seat and open pressure if going with a more modern grind.
I would not use those dual idler gear drives, would rather use a good quality chain or if you insist on a gear drive, Milodon.
I like the moroso valvecovers too, they are light and good quality with wide flanges. And the contours are pretty much like in stock covers, clearance for heater motor adn brake booster unlike in most cast covers. That's what I have too.
I would stay away from the gear drive,in a RACE ONLY engine it would be the way to go,but for double duty.Tony has a valid point there.Save the coin on the gear drive and throw it on a good roller,as you will not be dissapointed.I seen them valve covers on e-bay,hope you got a good deal as they looked as in-new cond.I did see some deals on the alum. water pumps and housings on e-bay also......why pay RETAIL and taxes?That converter is gonna throw a lot more heat.I use the MP deep pans on my trannys w/synthetic and B+M mixture of oils.and the pan kits P3690730 have a trick BILLET spacer and trick pan gasket to boot.A trans temp gauge might be something to look at if you don't have one already.Sounds like you're on you're way to really knockin down that E.T. !thumb Glen
Joined: Mon Jan 16 2006, 02:52AM
Location: Vantaa,Finland
Posts: 379
I agree, the gear drive is kind of "HiFi", but a milodon fixed idler does the job and lasts forever. It costs four times the money, a good chain costs and it's for you to decide wether you want one or not. I changed to a belt drive because I got fed up with the noice. My 10+ year old milodon is still in use though, and works like new. There is a lot of hidden costs when converting to a roller, and you can go a long way with good solids too. I ent to a roller 10+ years ago after wiping out three MP 296/.557" cams. My first roller was a comp cams 308R, it didn't perform any better in my application than the solid MP cam. If it's street & strip use, you must check the valve lash pretty frequently, I think I have fourth set of lifters now because the roller bearings went south. There are some new lifters with pressurised oil feed to the rollers, they may be the key to make them live in jam traffic with big seat pressures. And if you go roller, invest on good quality endurance style springs.
Joined: Sat Mar 04 2006, 08:01PM
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 171
SportFury440 wrote ... Whew, that being said this Yeep better mph 115+ or it might be time to awww hell who am I kidding, might have to chrome it !tape
No chroming necessary Dana! Maybe it's just time to think about building a 493" BB with a hydraulic roller cam. You can make some big streetable power with a combo like that.
Cars like ours need lots of torque and a big 493" will give it to you in spades. Just a thought! !thumb
. Also plan on redoin my aircleaner with this stuff... 
