Joined: Thu Jun 25 2009, 11:41PM
Location: Santa Ynez CA
Posts: 105
when replacing my alternator what else do i have to worry about? i have noticed that aftermarket alternators are quite common so i figure i shouldn't be surprised that mine is acting up. when idling i cannot have the headlights on and adjust the electric seat at the same time. i figure upgrading to a higher amperage alternator wouldn't hurt. if i put in a higher amperage alternator do i need a different voltage regulator? can i hurt my ammeter?
Joined: Thu May 01 2008, 11:15AM
Location: Chicago,IL
Posts: 2868
A higher output alt in and of itself will have no impact on your wiring or other components. It is the draw on the charging system that determines whether the wiring, meters, and such will be over taxed. The alternator only delivers what is requested, no more. If you haven't added aftermarket fans, amps, etc, then you don't need any substantial upgrades, you just need to make sure everything is in good shape, and after 41 yrs it's probably not.
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
Considering that the headlights and power seat adjuster used to work together with the stock alternator when the car was new, you need to find out why they don't now. The very first thing you want to do is clean the bulk head connector and probably clean and re-lubricate your seat mechanisms.
The last thing you want to do is add more power generation ability, this will just over load and heat dirty connections and potentially start a fire.
Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
Ok.You can upgrade your alternator--but do not try to hook up the cart in front of the donkey... First clean the bulkhead connector. Then do the MAD conversion,bypass the ammeter guage Here is the sticky thread about this: http://www.cbodydrydock.com/forum_viewtopic.php?5.67917
You can upgrade the old mechanical voltage regulator to a modern electronic one and still look stock. I wired up my main accessory feed (power seats,etc) separately (with a fusible link) from the main feed for the headlamp switch (they are eventually spliced into one from the factory) Power master makes a one wire alternator that pumps out 60 or 78 amps.
Go to Autozone and buy a VR706.Pop the cap off of it and use your old cover over it. Looks stock but it is really hi-tech! Finally,for rock solid guages get the electronic 5 volt limiter. This puppy is behind the instument cluster and the old bi-metal ones are famous for giving owners fits and damaging guages. All the items shown are plug n play with no cutting/chopping of your original engine bay wiriing harness.When bypassing the ammter guage wires will be added and some in the main harness under the dash will be cut and yet unseen. Hope this helps. Questions? Anyone here can help or I am just a PM away. <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Fri Oct 09 2009, 08:23PM ]</span>
Joined: Sat Dec 10 2005, 04:28PM
Location: United States
Posts: 4954
Fury440 wrote ... Considering that the headlights and power seat adjuster used to work together with the stock alternator when the car was new, you need to find out why they don't now. The very first thing you want to do is clean the bulk head connector and probably clean and re-lubricate your seat mechanisms.
The last thing you want to do is add more power generation ability, this will just over load and heat dirty connections and potentially start a fire.