Joined: Sat Jun 23 2007, 06:05PM
Location: Windsor, Ontario
Posts: 85
I'm seriously considering upping the ante in the Fury and need some opinion. The current 318 just doesn't pick up a 3900 lb car very quickly
First off, I'm considering sticking with a small block, 360 to be exact. One to save weight and two, it doesn't seem that hard to get a 360 to put out comparable power levels to a 383 or 400. 440 would be sweet but the budget is not large.
I'm also wondering about the rear end. Currently an 8.25 resides in it. I can already hear the 8.75 ideas but again the budget is constrained and an 8.75 build is far more, especially when it comes to sure grip units. Basically I'm wondering if a solidly built 8.25 will live behind a 350-400 hp motor in a big, heavy car. i know a few guys running 8.25's in 360 powered A bodies and they don't seem to have any issues.
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 05:03PM
Location: CR, IA
Posts: 762
If you are thinking 360, and with the size and weight of the car, I suggest adding a 4.0" stroke crank and pistons for a 400+ ci small block with loads of torque.
8.25",.....hey!...why not!. Actually they are a great rear end,and they have many +'s!. As long as you don't go throwing too much hp at them or run slicks the axles are quite strong. The next small block i build,will be a 360 w/magnum heads as it is quite easyto build, as hyper pistons are on the shelf from K-B or others. Stock rods and crank should do! A good dual pattern cam such as the XE series from Comp Cams in the .480" range should suffice and a Good dual plane manifold,such as the Eddy Performer rpm!. The great thing with the magnum heads are...they will out flow even the 340 "X" 68-70 heads and with a bit of porting,come close to in between the "X"s and the W-2s. And the rocker gear is far superior on the magnums compared to the LA style shaft system. However they are a 1.6 ratio and the cam has to be thought out well,as that .480"range now becomes .510-.520" range. If you can score a set of full-groove main bearings,..go for it as this is one problem area on an LA motor that will drastically improve the oil system along with a windage tray! Orrrr...if you've got an extra 5 Grand burnin' a hole in your pocket...I've got a sweet little ole' 1970 340 that i'm puttin' the finishing touches on right now and it is for sale. This one will require you to step up to an 8 3/4" rear though!!!.
Where is the 360 coming from? My guess is a junk yard pull, verses a crate, based on the budget comment.
To put out that kind of power you will need to address most of the internals of the engine. Could easily make the cost of a Sure-Grip pale in comparison. Getting a 8 3/4" under the rear shouldn't cost much and is easy to do. You could then drop in the Sure-Grip pumpkin later, as money permits.
Joined: Sat Jun 23 2007, 06:05PM
Location: Windsor, Ontario
Posts: 85
Glen, if I had 5 G's I'd be going big block for sure Stroker would be nice as well. I planned on doing the car from the rear forward when it came to power. Rear first and then engine/tranny. Just don't want to sink my chips in a rear that's going to grenade after a few hard take offs !drive I'll keep my eyes open for a good 8.75 in the mean time as I'm in no rush. Thanks guys.
The great thing about an 8 3/4" is, unless you plan to race a bunch, they will hold up great. So if the price is right, just about any axle the right width will do. Then upgrade it as needed, as you go. Don't get caught up in worrying about which number carrier to get, and paying extra for a specific number. They all will hold up just fine for your needs.
Joined: Tue Jun 05 2007, 01:44PM
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 131
Just fyi, the salvage yard where we recently got a rear end for the Fury has a 66 Fury with a good 8.75" open 3.23 rear gear in it. You could have the whole rear end, axle tubes and all, for $125, which I think is reasonable. The only catch is that (based on recent discussion) it sounds like the axle shafts were a bit wider in 1970 and later C bodies. Only by about an inch and a half though, probably nothing to worry about clearance-wise or anything.
Oh, and that same yard has a 440 sitting in a 73 Chrysler, which you could probably have for about $400-500, but it would have to go through a complete rebuild which can make the dollars add up very fast. The 360 engines stroked to a fat 408 cubes seem to very popular these days, so that may be the way to go, especially considering that you wouldn't have to change lots of other components to accommodate a big block.
Joined: Sat Jun 23 2007, 06:05PM
Location: Windsor, Ontario
Posts: 85
Hmmm...I thought all C-body rears were the same dimensions from 65 right up through the 70's. That's what all the info I've seen says anyway. Was there a difference in there somewhere?
Joined: Mon Jan 16 2006, 02:52AM
Location: Vantaa,Finland
Posts: 379
We built a 360 in to a '67 Fury III, a '75 junk yard engine, short block completely stock. Double roller timing chain and MP 260/268 hydraulic cam ere the only new parts put in. th eheads were home ported, and milled .060", and fel pro head gaskets were used. Intake was a performer with a 3310 holly, yellow vacuum spring. distributor was 360's stock electronic with an orange box, the longer thicker advance spring removed. Stock 360 exhaust manifolds, 2.5" duals with turbo mufflers and that's about it. THe trans was a 904 with stock converter, and the rear a 8 3/4" sure grip rear with 3.23 gears; it run 15.1 at 93 mph in hte 1/4 mile. Weight of the car was unknown, it was stock with about 100 lbs of bondo.