Joined: Wed Nov 17 2010, 03:28PM
Location: florida
Posts: 1311
don't use the ssbc kit.its based on early k-h brakes designed for a much smaller and lighter cars like found on early barracudas and mustangs that had factory k-h brakes.its a great kit and comes complete but i had it and sold it in favor of building my own kit using 73 spindles and rotors with first gen viper calipers.for a lot less money i may add.there are better choices out there that are more compatible
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 09:48PM
Location: Calgary Alberta Canada
Posts: 305
Except... that is only good for 15 inch wheels
I did build my own "kit" for my 67 300. But that had the 15 wheels. Worked out great though.
I am trying to make something or get something that i could keep the 14.... which is hard to do. I know i have to give a bit with the smaller disc size.
Joined: Sat Apr 04 2009, 10:33PM
Location: washington
Posts: 163
I went thru the same thing with my newyorker. Quality 14" tires were getting impossible to find, and i really like the stock hubcaps. I found a guy that makes stock steel 15" wheels with a welded in ring so your 14" hubcaps will work with the larger wheel. I found his price prohibitively expensive. If i remember it was $900 for 4 steel wheels. When I built my stroker motor, the question answered itself...The stock drum brakes were inadequate with the more powerful motor. I looked at ssbc and scarebird. Scarebird won out because of the much larger brake size and the use of the stock spindles and the much lower cost. I bit the bullet and found some 15" wheel I could live with. I still think I may get a set of those custom steel wheels with the welded in ring in the future.
Joined: Sat Aug 19 2006, 05:03PM
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2919
FYI, there are now C-body front disc kits available from Wilwood. Looks like they made their own disc hub which fits on the drum spindle. Minimum 15" wheels though.
Joined: Wed Nov 17 2010, 03:28PM
Location: florida
Posts: 1311
when you add that wildwood kit up with the extras ,(powder coating,6 piston caliper cuz the others are too small for a cbody,12" rotors,drilling,master cyl,prop valve,brake hoses)you will be looking at $2000.gets real pricey real fast
i did the scarebird conversion a few weeks ago on my 68 NewYorker, worked fine, everything was a drop in fit.
the reason for scarebird was: OEM parts and spareparts (even they are expensive in Germany), price, and biggest rotors for 15" wheels. Switch to 15" 2 Years ago, no Tires in 14" at all in Germany to buy. the only thing, was a Powerbrake drum car, and i have low vac due my Cam. The Master new brake cylinder had a 1 1/8 Piston , the needed Force to Brake was extreme high. Was not Possible for people without a weightlifter/sumowrestler like figure to brake. with a Manual brake the cylinder would be fine. So i removed the front line resident brake pressure Valve of the old master brake cylinder (with 1" Piston, and i know the chamber is to small to cover the brake pad wear), now the needed force is equal to the stock Drum brakes. MAybe next Srping i will do some fine tuning on it, but there are other things to do first. i would do it again, and my next car will get a scarebird kit too if possible. now i have good stopping power and a very controllable brake feeling (on wet roads to, which was importand for me, it is not AZ here)
Joined: Sat Feb 04 2017, 07:45PM
Location: SoCal
Posts: 5
Has anyone used 1970 C-body stock spindles & disc on a 67-68 to replace the drums? I read somewhere the 70 spindles are 2" lower then the 68s and would be the same as dropped spindles PLUS adding disc. Anyone know if it's true????