Joined: Wed Aug 11 2010, 10:15AM
Location: E WA
Posts: 1230
3ducks wrote ...
I still like the idea of a stroker since most of the time the car will be on the street so torque is the way to go. But it looks like the cost of machining will add to much to the overall price if I'm having someone else do the build.
I have very limited experience with performance mods so I'm just looking for advice and opinions with what would be the best way to go with the 400 I have.
If I were to stick to a rebuild of my 400, what options do I have and what gains can I make. Im trying to learn as much as I can before I quiz my engine builder so I don't sound to thick lol.
'But it looks like the cost of machining will add to much to the overall price if I'm having someone else do the build."
The machining for a stroker engine should not be any more than for a regular engine. Some stroker kits may require grinding the bottom of the cylinder walls a little but many do not.
The additional cost for a stroker vs a standard rebuild will be in the new crank shaft and connecting rods vs refurbishing your existing crank and rods.
Joined: Sat Mar 29 2008, 03:36PM
Location: North eastern Wis.
Posts: 1638
dberggren wrote ...
bboogieart wrote ...
What kind of horse power are you aiming at? The 8 1/4 is under everything from B body on up, including all sorts of trucks up to the 3/4 ton range and holds up just fine.
I dont think any 3/4 trucks got a 8 1/4. For awhile they used 8 3/4 and then for a while 8 1/4 on light duty half tons, then they started using 9 1/4s.
I have a 77 B-200 with the 8 1/4. That is a van, but still a truck. I guess I could have been more specific. It's rated for 3/4 ton. It was standard for vans from 71 into the 80's if not the early 90s. Pick-ups had the 8 1/4 in half ton. Unsure about 3/4 ton there. Still, all in all, a good rear end, and he already has it.
Hes got the 8.25 and its fine, not the aftermarket support of the 8.75 though. If you can find a 8.75 and its a decent price I would pick it up.
The machining shouldn't be too bad, any decent machinist can turn the counterweights down on any lathe, grinding the mains to 400 size will add just a small amount over what it costs to grind a 400 undersized. A decent machine shop could probably turn the mains down at the same time they turn down the weights, but it will have to be finished on a crank grinder.
After that, prices will be equal to any on the 400 stuff, truing up the rods, bore/hone/deck the block. All youll have to do is do a little grinding with a die grinder to make clearance for the crank. So easy a caveman could do it lol. IMHO if you don't take a grinder to the inside of a block to at least clean it up inside, then you're not really building an engine.