Hi all, Im new here, but not new to mopars, especially the big blocks, been around them my whole life. My Dad and I own a survivor 71 GTX 440/auto that he bought in 72 as the second owner, it was bought by his friend new in the Dodge/Plymouth dealership in our hometown where we still live. My Uncle has had a few big blocks, a 69 RR 383, 70 Super Bee 440, currently has a 74 Barracuda 318 and a 66 New Yorker, 2dr, 440/auto, which is why Im on here, also off and on since the late 70s hes campaigned a big block mopar powered Modified Pulling tractor, currently set up with 2 440s hooked crank to crank, hardblocked, bored .60 over, original iron max wedge heads (soon to be aluminum) and injected with alky.
The other day my Uncle mentioned about selling his New Yorker to fund fixing up his Barracuda, which got me to thinking that it would be a sweet street cruiser. Something that handles well (for what it is), has all the power I need or want, and has all the creature comforts of a newer car. Its a power everything (even brakes I think) car with A/C. Its a pretty straight car, a little rust but not horrible, the interior has been recovered all black but not in the car at the moment. Being a 2dr its big but not ocean liner sized like the later 4drs. I instantly saw it lowered with some bigger wheels on it (17-20s) (which I know is sacreligous to some on here, but I think they look pretty BA with that look) tinted windows and a nice stereo system in it, some other custom touches, but nothing outrageous, youd have to look hard to find them. Im thinking something low and fast, something I can pick up a bunch of friends in, roll the windows down if its nice or ride with the A/C on, and go on a cruise/poker run/power tour with, while still having some get up and go when I want to. Something I can play with without having to worry about messing it up like the GTX, something thats different than all the 67-69 camaros, 60s mustangs, and 70s Chevelles that seem to invade and choke out everything else at a car show, something custom but it could go back to original if I ever wanted it to, but probably not. lol
So my question on Tbars is for everyone, but especially those who have done something similar to what Im talking about, Ive done some research on here and since I know the only really good way to lower the front is to loosen the Tbars, Im about 100% sure Im gonna need the heavier bars, probably the heaviest ones that Firm Feel makes, and sway bars front and rear,because I dont want this think to handle like a row boat in a hurricane. So are you happy with the way your car handles for being a 4000lb car with loose Tbars?
Im suprised someone hasnt come up with an offset Tbar adjuster like people use on newer pickups to lift them, but to lower them and stil maintain your Tbar tension. Im not as familar with these T bar setups as I am on the 4x4 Chebby stuff. Im guessing that the system works a little different than those and cant be done otherwise one of you smart guys wouldve already done it. lol
Anyways, sorry this has been longer than I though it would be, I havent bought the car yet, just trying to do some homework. Thanks in advance for any and all replies!
I plan on using torsion bars out of a Chevy 3/4 ton they are longer and thick enough to shortening them and having the hexes re machined on. I hope they are not too stiff..
Well, I've got a 67 300 'vert and most of the mods I've done are to the suspension. When I bought my car, the suspension was pretty much all worn out and it was SCARY to drive over 50 mph. Since then I've had the suspension rebuilt with Firm Feel and Just Suspension part. The car is now pretty much a dream to drive. Handles fairly well for a big old car and the ride is still decent. Here's my list:
1.16 torsion bars from JS Heavy duty strut rods and bushings from JS Tubular upper control arms from JS 1 1/8 front sway bar from Firm Feel Rear sway bar from FF Lower control arm plates from FF Bilstean shocks Rear leaf springs from ESPO All new bushing, ball joints and idler arm, Pitman arm and tie rod ends.
Also a Firm Fell level 2 steering box (2 stages firmer than stock). Also, sub frame connectors
These changes made and AMAZING difference in the car...Pretty good handling without destroying the ride.
I planned on sub frame connectors as probably the first modification. They shouldve been factory installed on all B/C/E bodies as far as Im concerned lol
Joined: Sat Aug 25 2007, 11:47AM
Location: new jersey
Posts: 367
Your cars caster and camber angles are engineered based on the factory ride height. There's not a lot of latitude with the adjustment on these cars. I think you're setting yourself up for disappointment making changes like you mention. You will lose suspension travel making the car prone to bottoming out too.
As much as Id like to put it on air bags, to get the best of both worlds, ride height when I need it, and low when I dont, until someone comes up with a way to do it without hacking the car up, its the only way. Theres alot of good looking lowered cars Ive seen on here. I just think these old girls look best low and mean.