Hi, well I'm already to go with the system overhauled on my '65 Fury 3. To recap it's fitted with original rear brakes but the front has a 69 on front disc conversion by previous owner . It now has new m/c ,just about to bench bleed that and refit . Rear lines still have fluid in them but front has drained down.
I've just spotted in the darkness of my engine bay that it has a proportioning valve . I've only worked on with one other car new enough to have one and that was a 73 Buick Regal and I remember it took forever due to something internally on that .
Joined: Wed Aug 11 2010, 10:15AM
Location: E WA
Posts: 1230
kapri wrote ...
Hi, well I'm already to go with the system overhauled on my '65 Fury 3. To recap it's fitted with original rear brakes but the front has a 69 on front disc conversion by previous owner . It now has new m/c ,just about to bench bleed that and refit . Rear lines still have fluid in them but front has drained down.
I've just spotted in the darkness of my engine bay that it has a proportioning valve . I've only worked on with one other car new enough to have one and that was a 73 Buick Regal and I remember it took forever due to something internally on that .
All tips and tricks gratefully received
I do not think that there are any real tricks to bleeding your brake system. I do not even bench bleed the master cylinder before installation. It may take a little more time if you do not bench bleed the MC but it is less messy and you end up with the same result.
You can just do the tried and true pump and hold where an assistant pumps the brakes and then holds while you release the bleeder valve or get one of the vacuum pump systems which sucks the fluid through. You will still need to do a little of the pump and hold after using the vacuum system to get the brakes really good but much less.
Always start bleeding the brake farthest from the master cylinder RR then LR then RF then LF and make sure that you do not drain the master cylinder too low or you will be starting over again.
I prefer to use the DOT 4 fluid. It is fully compatible with DOT 3 but has a slightly higher boiling point and is less hydroscopic. It seems to cause a little less rust issues with the steel brake lines.
Joined: Fri Apr 21 2006, 07:28AM
Location: England
Posts: 739
I replaced my entire set of brake pipes, my car also has a prop valve. I bench bled the MC, just get a couple of brake pipes bent round back to the reservoir. When it came to bleeding the brakes I found the fluid had already gravity fed to the cylinders and callipers if you leave it a bit. I just had to bleed the brakes in the normal way as flj says. Just have a go you might be surprised.
Joined: Sat Mar 29 2008, 03:36PM
Location: North eastern Wis.
Posts: 1638
I put the master on the car and "bench bleed i.e. using the short lines back into the cylinder", it with the pedal. It saves time and mess for me. Also much easier, if you can have the engine running, for power assist cars.