Joined: Fri Apr 21 2006, 07:28AM
Location: England
Posts: 739
I was wondering how year/model specific are the tank senders on the late '60s early '70s?
Many years ago I replaced my fuel tank on my '71 Fury with an unknown B body tank. When the sender eventually packed up, I put in my C sender. Probably didnt read correct but better than nothing.
Now I need another sender so was wondering how many late '60s types there were? .
Also on ebay they seem expensive. What should I be looking to pay?
It looks like most of them will fit, but they have different pick up bends and float heights.
If anyone knows of a good supplier it would be appreciated.
Joined: Sun Jan 07 2007, 07:37PM
Location: London,Ontario
Posts: 166
First you need to know what model of car the tank came from then order accordingly. Keep in mind the senders are 73-10 ohm the same as Ford. Before you install do a mockup connection to see where the values for the sender occur and make sure the gauge works properly. Ground right to the outlet pipe using a small band gear clamp. If the sender works great but be aware you may have to bend the float rod for accurate readings. Remember that the tanks have different shapes with slanted bottoms so halfway on the float arm may not be half-full in the tank. There's a sure way to set it if it's off. If 73 ohms is empty and 10 is full then 24 would be half on a full tank not half the resistance. With the tank out and sitting at the same angle, install the sender and mock up gauge connections. The next part may make the hair stand on the back of your head but it's nothing a bit of mrtholhydrate won't cure. Add water to the tank in increments that are in proportion with the tank volume and observ the gauge. If you have a 19 gallon tank the gauge will read 1/2 when 9 1/2 gallons are added. Manipulating the bend in the float arm make the value on the gauge and the amount in the tank match. When just sitting just off the floor of the tank the gauge should read empty and full would be just below the roof of the tank. You can see now how bending (and sometimes lengthening the float arm ) will make the gauge and the unit match values. It's all in the swing of the arm which is determined by it's length and profile. This is a tedious process but once done is well worth it. Most aftermarket senders are "average" at best and you must pick the value ( empty or full ) that matters most to you. After doing the setup, empty the tank and add about 2 quarts of methol hydrate and slosh it vigorously in the tank. Dry it well inside with what ever method works for you except a heat gun. Place it in the sun for a couple hours, air blow it or reach inside with lint free rags towipe it dry. Reinstall and enjoy the fruits of your previous frustration.