Joined: Mon Feb 18 2008, 11:08PM
Location: Tewantin, Queensland, Australia
Posts: 405
Yes i have searched and found lots of info, but what i'm wondering is if i use 2" box with 3mm wall thickness,cut 1 side out it'll fit over existing rear rail near the leaf spring mount. My problem is the other end where it will mount onto the front sub frame,if i place box section straight up on there it covers one of the mounting bolts. I figure this shouldn't matter as if the front sub frame ever needs to be undone the car will be accident damaged so i'd have to be cutting the box section (frame connector) off any way. I will be fully welding both ends in. Clear as mud?
Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
It's only 3mm so what if you drill a hole to line up with the offending bolt and then just bolt right through? Maybe I'm not visualizing the problem area ell enough?
Joined: Wed Nov 17 2010, 03:28PM
Location: florida
Posts: 1311
i have done what you are doing.i used 2" square tube and notched the end to go over the rear framerail and welded it.i also added thicker material on torque box.for the front i ran into the same problem with the bolts being in the way so i stopped the tube @ 4" short and just welded another short piece to the side off the tube to offset the connection point. i didnt weld it to the subframe i bolted mine by making a plate same size as connection point on subframe and used the two bolts as my connection attachment.didnt feel good about welding just in case it needed to come apart.the bolts are 1/2" and the plate i used is 1/4" so it is strong.it made a difference for sure.i have a convertible,and even though i had no sag and doors opened and closed good,the car still flexed when i jacked it up to work underneath.now,its solid.maybe it would be better welded but for now i am happy.i can post some pics later.
Joined: Sat Apr 29 2006, 05:11PM
Location: Cincy
Posts: 269
First, I'm never a fan of using 2 inch square tubing. 2 x 3 is a MUCH better solution. And if you use 2 x 3 2 mm thickness is more than adequate. If you really want to get carried away you should weld the frame connectors to the floor pan.
Joined: Wed Nov 17 2010, 03:28PM
Location: florida
Posts: 1311
her are some pics of what i did i offset them up @ 1" to get it to hit where i wanted then offset them 2" to miss the bolt
to do connectors in cars with torque boxes they have to be cut open to access the framerail.so i used thicker material when i rewelded them up to help strengthen the connection.i've had this car since '86 and always wanted to do this .i got around to it last year and i dont know why i didnt do it sooner.big improvement in strength and road feel.just cost me some time and i used material i had laying around shop.if i had to buy material ,it would have been under $50.
Joined: Fri Aug 31 2007, 04:21PM
Location: Loma Linda, CA
Posts: 84
I've completed this part of my restoration/modification and can send pictures to you via email. Unfortunately can't post the pictures directly. I don't mind if they do get posted, I just can't do it from this computer at work. My email is in profile as well. Ron.
