Joined: Tue Oct 11 2005, 01:33AM
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 5893
Beautiful job!
Does this engine have an external crankcase vent pipe? Just curious about the need for the rocker cover air filters?
One small suggestion, maybe double up the throttle return spring. Should your single spring fail, life gets far too interesting while you fish around with your foot trying to lift the gas peddle off the floor!
Does this engine have an external crankcase vent pipe? Just curious about the need for the rocker cover air filters?
One small suggestion, maybe double up the throttle return spring. Should your single spring fail, life gets far too interesting while you fish around with your foot trying to lift the gas peddle off the floor!
I'll stop by advanced this afternoon.......... Thanks
Reason for the dual rocker cover filters, they look pretty
Car is at the muffler shop now, can't wait to drive it this evening.
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 10:24AM
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 160
Flip the alternator adjuster-bracket around.
I would also mount the throttle return spring higher on the motor with a sturdy bracket. As it is now, all the forces of the spring and throttle cable are pulling downwards on the throttleshaft, making it wear faster in the carb and create a tiny vacuumleak over time.
Joined: Wed Dec 21 2005, 07:34AM
Location: indiana
Posts: 791
What he means is the slotted end of the alt bracket goes at the alternator. You have the curve correct. You haven't done it wrong, just backwards of the factory installation.
Where is the ~3/8" vac hose from the front of the carb going to?
Why are you not using a vac-advance dizzy? That's gonna cost you in driveability, esp if your trans hasn't had PT kickdown installed in it. Regardless of how strong it runs, or if you have PTK, you're leaving torque on the table with a locked-advance dizzy.
That rubber fuel hose running down to the FP may eventually rub thru, it'll see a lot of vibration and there are some semi-sharp corners it's surely laying on. Yeah, it's a PITA to bend a tube behind the alt and around the dizzy, but it's much safer.
That fuel filter is not the most robust style out there, the plastic ones that are shaped like the stamped-metal ones are generally OK, but I had a cheapo like that one crack on me.
And that return-spring bracket is not the best factory design, there are later ones that have a tang to prevent rotation. That one has only the clamp force of the bolt to keep it from rotating. Yeah, it'll probably be OK, but if it's not it's a bad thing to go wrong.
And if you can get those springs closer to horiz, that is better as BBM mentioned. But in addition to that, your throttle cable is at a really bad angle due to your taller intake manifold.
Sorry to be critiquing so much, it's just that I've been burned (almost literally) by some of that stuff in years past.
Been making a lot of good progress on the New Yorker. Got several of the things fixed that you all have suggested and have the car running and driving. I've fought some coolant leaks but after some TLC i got everything sealed up nice. The exhaust is finished up and I can't believe how smooth the motor runs, especially with the added power and torque. As mentioned earlier in the thread as a possible problem. The car is running hot when sitting. I'm on the hunt for a shroud, but its hard to find c body parts local. (Mostly because of the demo derby guys from 15 years ago). Any how, I changed to a 7 blade steel fan. It helped a little, but having an electric fan on the outside of the radiator has helped the most. Thankfully I don't live in an urban area or cooling would be a bigger issue. Once the car fund builds back up I will be able to purchase an Aluminum Radiator and Milodon high volume pump with anti-cavitation plate and a high flow thermostat.
Fury Fan wrote ...
Where is the ~3/8" vac hose from the front of the carb going to? It is plugged off along with the rear line. Its not the most effective way but it works for now. Why are you not using a vac-advance dizzy? That's gonna cost you in driveability, esp if your trans hasn't had PT kickdown installed in it. Regardless of how strong it runs, or if you have PTK, you're leaving torque on the table with a locked-advance dizzy. The car came with MSD 6AL electronic ignition when I bought it. So I simply chose the best direct replacement distributor. As for a PT kick down, I honestly don't know what that is or if its on the car already or not. Any more info you could give would be helpful. A link to purchase it would also help a lot.
Sorry to be critiquing so much, it's just that I've been burned (almost literally) by some of that stuff in years past. Again no worries, I'm not the most mechanically inclined person in the world, but I do enjoy learning, working, and the thrill you get behind the wheel.
Time for some pictures & I'll do a youtube walk around video this weekend.
