Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 12:14PM
Location: Rochester IN
Posts: 152
1) Steel head gaskets. pros & cons. I'm looking for a compression bump. I know you would have to retorque them after break-in. Do you have to use a sealer or put them on "dry"?
2) Timming Gears, Pros & cons. 440 Source has a set for 90$. About what I was going to pay for a chain. Bronze dizzy gear, cam button, etc?
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 05:02PM
Location: ALLEN PARK, MI.
Posts: 2007
Good questions SW! Let's see what I can do for you here!
Steel head gaskets: Factory put them on dry. Thickness was .020". Some will add some rtv around the water ports for that "extra measure" of protection. Retorque after ONE heat cycle completed (break-in) is preferred! !thumb
Pros/cons: Yes, the factory STEEL head gaskets do tend to "protect" the factory compression ratio, as the conventional aftermarket .040" (+/-) thickness can lower it just a tad....not much mind you! The aftermarkets types do tend to avoid the retorque method...saving extra hassles. A good flat deck and head surface is CRUCIAL in proper sealing! Warped surfaces can screw ANY head gasket up. PERIOD! Some also tend to forget.....more so when MILLING both, is that effective cam lift profiles can also be effected. Hense......ADJUSTABLE ROCKER ARMS and/or custom length pushrods to reaquire proper cam lift.
Timing gears: A double roller aftermarket chain and steel gears is ALWAYS worth the $$$$$ if your gonna replace em'!!! Bronze distributor gear is only needed on ROLLER CAMS! Cam buttons and/or thrust plates are also only Roller Cam items. The roller lobes are flat across the width. A factory or AM flat tappet cam actually has a "slant" to each lobe! When the lifter rides on this lobe, it holds the cam "back" during accelleration/thrust/load. Neat.....HUH? Hope this all helps you! !thumb Tony P. TONYPRO RACING!
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 12:14PM
Location: Rochester IN
Posts: 152
Thanks PT. That cleared the mud some. I think I will go for the gear. I'm not trying to keep this factory. By my Desk top Dyno that .020 is worth a small jump in comp. I'm trying to get to 10.5-1 and that just might do it.
Joined: Mon Jan 16 2006, 02:52AM
Location: Vantaa,Finland
Posts: 379
I have never retorqued the steel shim gaskets, installed them always dry, and have not had any problems with them. 10.5:1 is quite a lot at least for pump gas, iron heads and non quench chambers. I would say it's way too much. The steel shim gaskets are not recommended with aluminum heads because of the different expanding rates.
I would not buy a dual idler gear drive, not any brand. I have used those in three engines, two fo them have broken, and just do not like them anymore. I would take a good quality chain over a dual idler egar drive any time. 440 source sells the Australian rollmaster with Rolon chain, that would be great. What kind of a cam do you use, a single or three bolt? If you want to use a gear drive, go with a single idler Milodon, and it may work better and longer than a good quality chain set.
Joined: Mon Jan 16 2006, 02:52AM
Location: Vantaa,Finland
Posts: 379
10.5:1 true CR with 452's and non quench pistons might be looking for trouble with pump gas. I think 9.5:1 might be closer to the truth, trying to prevent detonation?
Joined: Mon Oct 10 2005, 12:14PM
Location: Rochester IN
Posts: 152
The pistons are L2295F 60. They have a .140 dome. Advertised at 10.34 with 88cc heads and with the over bore I was told they should be about 10.46. The 452's is what I have, but not what I want. Thanks for saying it might be trouble. Trying to flot a lone from the 1st Bank of Wife.
Let's see what I can do for you here!
